My how-to: Water Temp gauge.

[FL_PR5]

Alright after quite of bit of talking on another thread here (http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120420) i've come across on my how to on putting in a Water Temp Gauge on a protege5. i've found out there are quite a few ways to do it but this is how i did it.

Special Thanks to the following for making it possible:
TurfBurn
Brian MP5T
Bigg Tim
Linux Racer

What you will need:
Water Temp Gauge and sensor.
14-18awg wire.
Wire strippers.
Scissors or exacto knife.
Electrical tape.
Heatshrink.
Wrench for clamps on hose with 8 socket.
Butt clamps, i think they're called that (clips into wire without distrupting it)
2 tightening clamps, used by wrench or flathead.
1 3/8"NPT 4" brass pipe.
1 3/8" NPT T fitting.
Metal saw to cut brass pipe.
teflon tape.

Alright this is my first how-to so bare with me. i'll try to keep this short and to the point.

after you get the brass pipe cut it in half and use teflon tape on the threads to put it in the T. i also put teflon on the sensor threads both big and small ones.

So roughly like this:
1/2 pipe ----- T Fitting ---- 1/2 pipe
|
3/8" to 1/8"NPT Adapter
|
sensor

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3529.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3558.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3562.jpg

Cut into the hose with the yellow arrows on it. Ignore the red arrows on that hose. this was a pic from the thread listed above.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/ads.jpg

I suggest using a buddy for this part. take off the intake, i have a CAI so i popped that off and it was way easier so i suggest it, otherwise it's nearly impossible. now move as many wires as you can out of the way. i put newspaper under the car to catch most of the excess radiator fluid. take the scissors or exacto knife and cut the hose. try to elevate it as much as possible to minimize fluid flow or block the hose holes with your buddies thumbs or something else. i used my thumbs and a screw with a bunch of washers/one big fat washer with a nut holding it on and plugged the hole. now slide on one of the clamp rings on each side of the hose. put the T in the hose and tighten down the clamps with a flathead or the socket wrench. try to cover as much brass as possible so you have a less chance of leaking by more space for clamping. check and make sure everything is tightened down and secure and no leaking. the end result should look like this:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3609.jpg

i grounded the gauge by the battery in this picture. this is before i made it all nice and neat. but touch up the hole as much as possible so no moisture or water gets in there. i clamped on a U to fit around that big screw on the stock groundwire on the brass fitting, but use whatever you can, i just dont suggest wrapping the wire around the screw.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3606.jpg

now run your wire through the firewall to under your steering wheel (i also did my A/F gauge install so thats why i more than one wire running through the wall in the yellow shielding). then run the wire up to your left side of the drivers side wall up to your pillar.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3608.jpg

for it to come one when the car does i tapped into the cigarrete lighter (pink/black wire). and run that wire along the wall with your sender and grounding wire. also use that ignition wire to run your light and for the negative wire for the light use the other black wire from the cigarette lighter.

when you're finished your setup should look like this:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3615.jpg

when you turn your key to on the everything should light up. and make sure to disconnect your negative terminal. i just did this to my car so i will let you know if i throw i CEL which i doubt, knock on wood. use the heatshrink around the wire connections under the hood. electrical tape will do fine in the car's driver bay.

thank you and enjoy.
-bob.

[FL_PR5]

no thanks? oh well.

[Jeph]

Thanks!
I'm about to do this, and the other thread was such a mess of stuff i had a hard time following what was supposed to happen. So this is very helpful :)

[FL_PR5]

no problem. if atleast one person gets help from it then i've done my job. yea that other thread was total chaos. your welcome and you're good to go! (thumb)

[Jeph]

Heh, you got coolant all over heheheheh

[eting_pro5]

So I'm gonna play the idiot card here...

Why do you need the water temp gauge? Isn't that what the temp gauge on the dash is for? Is this only for more accuracy?

Thanks for not hating!

[Jeph]

Well if you're an idiot like me, you need it cause you broke your one in your dash messing around with gauge overlays and gauge rings...

[RyanJayG]

the one in the dash is worthless... by the time it shows "hot" its been too hot for a while already...

its just an idiot light

[Saban]

Why brass fitting instead of stainless steel?

[FL_PR5]

from what i understand it's harder to corrode and rust. that's why mainly everything under the hood is brass from what i can tell.

[FL_PR5]

and RyanJayG is correct. (first)

[blthlt]

can you post a pic of how you grounded the setup? I plan to do this in the near future.

[FL_PR5]

yea, i'm heading off to bed. i'll take a pic in the morning and post it in here when i first get up.

[FL_PR5]

ok here's the pic of the grounding.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/Lockrdge/000_3619.jpg

[FL_PR5]

hell yea i got it over quite a bit of places. plus my engine is dirty since i've been driving around the beach so that explains the sand.

[RyanJayG]

and RyanJayG is correct. (first)
thus why I RULE!

[blthlt]

how did you ground the actual sensor? ie: take a pic of the sensor.

[FL_PR5]

green wire is the ground wire from the gauge, red wire is going to sensor in the T. what other pics do you need?

[blthlt]

hmm...i thought you had to ground the actual sensor...like if you mounted it in the waterneck it would be ground. My bad.

[FL_PR5]

o no. it's fine. i know what you are talking about though. i believe that would only have to be if you put a T in the main radiator hose by the front of the block.

[igdrasil]

Whats the max temp you see? Like, when flooring it or in heavy traffic....

[FL_PR5]

so far mine is constant around 150, but i've kept it easy right now since i'm basically running on E in my fuel tank.

[igdrasil]

I see, I need more feedback from other people with the same mod, my car is pinging a lot and Im quite sure that the coolant is running too hot.

[FL_PR5]

i belive that is a problem a few other people have had before. i've seen a thread for that somewhere else in here. i think a synthetic oil change, radiator flush, and something else gets rid of it. not exactly sure.

[FL_PR5]

but some have complained of pings being a screw bouncing in their engine, or something similar with spark plugs or something like that.

[FL_PR5]

was wondering if someone could move it to the How-to forum. thanks.

[rednecks_r_us]

I just got all the parts tonight, gonna do it this weekend.

[FL_PR5]

sounds good. if you have any questions let me know. but i am currentley cameraless so i'll do my best without any updated pics.

[Jeph]

Ok, to raise an old thread.

I finally got around to installing my gauge. Where you chose to cut the hose is a total pain in the ass. Especially for me because i really didn't want to move my intercooler cold pipe that runs to the throttle body out of the way. SOOO i was trying to do everything with it still there.

Overall it was a great how to, but alas, my stupidity wins over your great how to. I got clamps that were barely too small, and i had to go down and get new ones (which i haven't done as of now, because its 3 in the morning.

My one question is where did you tap for the ignition?
On the back of my gauge there are 3 posts. The sensor, the ground, and the ignition. Did you not hook the ignition wire up? or did you just use the same 12v source as the light uses?

[rednecks_r_us]

For ignition-hot I tapped into the back of the cig lighter

[Maxx Mazda]

Whats the max temp you see? Like, when flooring it or in heavy traffic....

I get 210 before the fand kick in, and if I'm sitting still revving it it will go to 230 or so, then the rad can handle it...

[Jeph]

That seems pretty hot. I get nervous when i see temps that high...

[niv]

uh.. when your temps are in the 200+ range... what does the dummy temp gauge read? middle? high?

me and a buddy were trying to figure out why his dummy gauge spikes into the H zone. His water temp gauge shows a temp of 203 f / 95 c when going up a hill partial throttle (car is turbo'd p5)

new thermostat installed. so we don't think that's it. is it possible the dummy gauge is fooked?

ps. thanks for the how to :)

[Maxx Mazda]

Ya, dummy gauge will not move from the center once my actual gauge reads 180, then up to 230.

[02p5]

subscribes, this is me having the problems

PS. great how to, we were able to put a rear temp gauge to monitor temp istead of the dummy gauge that nearly gave me a heart attack last week

[02p5]

anyone else please share what the reading is on their coolant temperature gauges and what is a safe or when does the stock water temp goes to "H"

thanks

[Maxx Mazda]

If thse stock gauge goes to H your car is already overheated.

[niv]

the stock gauge goes to H, but the water temp gauge we installed as per how to, has only gone up to 95 C.

[Maxx Mazda]

did you install it coming out of the block or coming out of the rad? (Upper or lower rad hose)

[niv]

did you install it coming out of the block or coming out of the rad? (Upper or lower rad hose)
it's installed just like this how to. coming out of the topside

[02p5]

While crusing the car temps are averaging 81-89 C and the car goes up to low 90s when pushed hard.

We found when the oil temps hit 220 mark and water temps are at 203 the thermo starts moving up really quickly

[Maxx Mazda]

Your factory gauge might not be working right...

[FL_PR5]

wow i havn't been on in a hot minute. i need to play catch up.

mine stays at 150 steady. only twice has mine shot up to 210 then dropped. one of those times was a freak accident and then shot back down to 120. but 150 is normal driving for me.

[niv]

hmm i can't think of what else it might be.. maybe his rad cap is sketchy and not keeping pressure and therefore allowing a lower boiling point?

[Maxx Mazda]

hmm i can't think of what else it might be.. maybe his rad cap is sketchy and not keeping pressure and therefore allowing a lower boiling point?

No, rad cap will just control pressure, not so much temperature. I have a Mazdaspeed 1.3 Bar.

[FL_PR5]

hmm, that's odd for it to be that high. is he using the same hose from the how-to? what gauge wire? just checking all the little stuff to narrow it down.

[02p5]

wow i havn't been on in a hot minute. i need to play catch up.

mine stays at 150 steady. only twice has mine shot up to 210 then dropped. one of those times was a freak accident and then shot back down to 120. but 150 is normal driving for me.

wow, 150 is low that is like 65.5 C that is so low.

[02p5]

hmm, that's odd for it to be that high. is he using the same hose from the how-to? what gauge wire? just checking all the little stuff to narrow it down.

We used all the same hose on the how-to. I have a different unit (non gauge type) to monitor the temps. It's is properly grounded and I believe is working properly

[Maxx Mazda]

What do you mean non gauge type?

[niv]

yah.. we pretty much copied your how to exactly. (i think the piping was a touch longer, but otherwise it was exact)

as in it's not like an autometer or other type of "gauge" - i think is what he's saying. it's a different type of monitoring gauge.

as for rad cap... i was doing a bit of reading and if that isn't holding the pressure, it isn't allowing for the system to be pressurized... the pressure is what increases the boiling point of the solution in the system. (don't rmemeber the exact numbers but for every 1psi of rad cap bypass you lose 2.3-2.5 degrees of cooling capacity)

[Maxx Mazda]

as for rad cap... i was doing a bit of reading and if that isn't holding the pressure, it isn't allowing for the system to be pressurized... the pressure is what increases the boiling point of the solution in the system. (don't rmemeber the exact numbers but for every 1psi of rad cap bypass you lose 2.3-2.5 degrees of cooling capacity)

Ya, when I got my 1.3 Bar I noticed FAR less overflow during hard running, if any at all.

[02p5]

Just an update on my situation.

My p5 stock water temp is still reading high, between the middle to H. Not reaching H at the moment, maybe due to the cooler weather or maybe from the things I have done so far. It's much more managable at the moment.

Replaced the thermostat, rad cap, engine coolant temp sensor, upgraded the driver side fan and had the coolant flushed with proper mixture.

The fan is turning on when the car isn't moving. My Microtech LT8S is controlling the fan. My dummy gauge reads about 95-97 C when the temp needle starts going up. No loss in oil nor coolant and no coolant and oil and vice-versa.

Any ideas?

[yashooa]

This will great for me because the MPI makes your stock gauge show high (at certain times) whenever it suddenly, richens the mixture.
It tricks the ECU so then the ECU causes the gauge to go high.
I really want a temp gauge so THANKS...(first)

[drivethruecp]

Just an update on my situation.

My p5 stock water temp is still reading high, between the middle to H. Not reaching H at the moment, maybe due to the cooler weather or maybe from the things I have done so far. It's much more managable at the moment.

Replaced the thermostat, rad cap, engine coolant temp sensor, upgraded the driver side fan and had the coolant flushed with proper mixture.

The fan is turning on when the car isn't moving. My Microtech LT8S is controlling the fan. My dummy gauge reads about 95-97 C when the temp needle starts going up. No loss in oil nor coolant and no coolant and oil and vice-versa.

Any ideas?

I am havining the same exact problem as you and tried all of the same things http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2721925#post2721925

[justanotheradikt]

ok so could i put a water temp guage on the high rad hose right before it goes into the rad and get a good reading? or does it have to be that spot?

[FL_PR5]

i put it in that direct spot and it reads fine for me. i've only had a few spikes when i was driving long distances during the summer. but other than that i had no problems. not sure about the hose you're talking about. someone else might know the answer to that. i chose this one because i remember somewhere someone mentioning that the flow of the coolant determines also a good spot.

[blueprotegelx]

wow, 150 is low that is like 65.5 C that is so low.

mine reads the same...car runs fine though. i've got a ractive gauge. actually it's between 145-150. i've got the ground to an interior spot, green running to the temp sensor, and positive, well i forget where i have the positive running. haha. it's been awile since i've hooked it up. but that's what it stays at. anyone else's opinion on this matter of reading?

[blueprotegelx]

mine reads the same...car runs fine though. i've got a ractive gauge. actually it's between 145-150. i've got the ground to an interior spot, green running to the temp sensor, and positive, well i forget where i have the positive running. haha. it's been awile since i've hooked it up. but that's what it stays at. anyone else's opinion on this matter of reading?

i also just remembered i have put in a different thermostat it's not the stock but lower heat range. they maybe why, plus i'm not sure what others mods everyone else has but i do have a sri as well. i think mine might be a 160, not sure though just remembered it was a different heat range to keep cooler

[igdrasil]

keep in mind that if you are tapping a closed circuit with another ckt, you are actually adding resistance or changing voltage readings. You need to isolate your ckt in order to get correct readings. I think a diode can do that.

[altspace]

Nice write up.

[FL_PR5]

if you look at what temperature reading it's in, such as C or F. it's right on.
and thank you.

[dinux]

Old thread, I know but I had a question. My dad and I were looking at my car earlier because I am having another issue but I bought a water temp gauge to install. I was looking at this howto and the hose that you guys are cutting into makes no sense for summer driving. That house leads to the firewall which leads to the heater core. The heater core is only used when the heat is on, otherwise it is bypassed. On our cars, the hose that is the highest on the radiator is the return hose. See, on other vehicles this is where the thermostat is but our thermostat is in the bottom. So, unless I am wrong, this hose makes no sense. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

[dinux]

Bump for an answer please...

[dinux]

Afternoon bump for an answer...

[Blake]

there is water running through the heater core all the time. I do not believe it is bypassed.

[dinux]

Anyone else??? BUMP

[Blake]

im positive there is water running through that section of the line at all times.

[dinux]

Ok, so I installed my gauge the other day. If I plug the ground into the gauge the temp reads at like 115 if I unplug the ground it reads 195. Anyone know what the hell the deal is? It is really starting to piss me off. I have a 182 thermostat if that makes a difference. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

[tricky]

yes I'm bringing up an old thread. I want to run the adapter Tee off of the top end rad hose (next to the rad cap). Does anyone know the inside diameter of this hose?

[FL_PR5]

couldn't tell ya. not sure.

[blueprotegelx]

where can i get a sensor from? i think the reason mine stopped reason is due to using a buddies used sensor fitting. any suggestions?

[FL_PR5]

best bet i woudl say is ebay. still trying to fix mine... going to flush radiator and try something new. i'll keep you updated

[tricky]

where can i get a sensor from? i think the reason mine stopped reason is due to using a buddies used sensor fitting. any suggestions?

looking for something like this?

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=37

should be able to order it from any auto parts store. Product #
2385

[FL_PR5]

anyway to tell if the sensor went bad? is there a specific test that can be done?

[blueprotegelx]

i found a sensor, but i was curious if anyone has gotten this to work for sure! i'm gonna wait to buy the sensor until i know this will fix my water temp gauge

[Tom03es]

For all of you that are having bad readings on your water temp gauge- did you ground the sending unit? Not the gauge itself (although that needs to be grounded as well), but the sending unit. If you install the sending unit in the middle of a rubber hose, it doesn't get a good ground- and the sendor works like a thermocouple varying the voltage between ground and the water.

My gauge goes up to 185 in the winter. I haven't driven with it in weather over about 50 yet since I grounded my sender.

I have the stock temp thermostat BTW.

[FL_PR5]

hm, that's a good point. I'm going to reground the actual sensor to the block and see if that helps after the flush.

[blueprotegelx]

did grounding to your block work? cause if it does i'm gonna have to order a new sensor as well and try it. but my car is sittin an hour and a half away while i'm in school so i can't try it myself!

[FL_PR5]

haven't been able to do it yet either. sucks driving around and not really knowing. i might have to order a new sensor too. i have to find some cable from a friend around here.

[blueprotegelx]

keep us posted. I may have to rewire the entire setup just to make sure everything is correctly wired. but i don't want to order the sensor until i know for sure this will work!

[Tom03es]

I too thought my sendor was toast- until I grounded it. Now it works great. If your sendor is installed in the middle of a rubber tube, it HAS to be grounded.

[blueprotegelx]

I too thought my sendor was toast- until I grounded it. Now it works great. If your sendor is installed in the middle of a rubber tube, it HAS to be grounded.

mines in the middle, so it's best to ground it to the head? freakin awesome if it works. i may try this before i order a new sensor. haha

[Tom03es]

Ground it to a big chunk of metal- the engine block, cylinder head, unpainted portion of the frame, negative battery terminal.....

You can probably pick up an existing stud on the engine block that's already being used to ground other things and attach another ground strap there.

You can build a new ground strap for pennies. Try that before ordering a new $10 sendor plus another several dollars for shipping and handling.

[blueprotegelx]

consider it done! i'll be going home for spring break in a couple weeks and i'll try to complete this! i've had the gauge for almost three years and has never really worked! so it'll be exciting to see my "Water Temp" gauge work. haha, very sad read that I just said it'll be exciting to see that gauge work! :(

[Tom03es]

I know the feeling. I had mine installed for several month before I figured out about the grounding. When I saw it warm up for the first time, I was very happy.

[FL_PR5]

would it matter what gauge? any advice on wire?

[Tom03es]

I wouldn't think that it would matter what type of gauge it is. I think the sendor technology is basically the same.

What gauge is speaker wire? 12 or something? Use that.

[blueprotegelx]

do u think you can get some pictures of the wire to the sensor?

[DubbyDoo]

do you think that tapping the alumni block that the stock sensor is in and putting the sensor in that would be good?

[Tom03es]

I would probably put the aftermarket sensor in NEXT to the stock unit. That way your idiot light should still work in case you are totally oblivious if the temp ever sky rockets.

[mx-p5]

Quite a thread bump from 2005? Wow!!

subbin to do this mod later as soon as I have the moola for a guage and pod setup

Tylor

[blueprotegelx]

maybe a pic sometime soon so i can get more of an idea of the ground to the sending unit etc. i noticed some have the sending unit in middle of top radiator hose. i have mine on the hose in the back, pretty much right below the throttle body. is that ok?

[Tom03es]

I have mine in the same location described in the first post of this thread. WHY? I don't really know. I kind of regret putting it there because the access to it sucks.

So with that said, getting a clear picture of it isn't all that easy. What I did was a stripped the insulation off a speaker wire about 6" from the end. I wrapped that around the brass fitting block (the tee adapter that the sending unit sits in) and used electrical solder to secure it. Then the other end of that wire is attached to the ground lug on the right side of the engine block (when standing at the front of the car and looking back into the engine bay).

[blueprotegelx]

i ran a wire from the wire that i have tapped into sensor to the block and nothing happened. actually it's not the block but to where the original grounding point is on the stock temp sensor. should the wire be touching the sensor itself or is it ok where i have it? i have it tapped in a couple inches into the wire before sensor. i think i may just need a new sensor.

[FL_PR5]

Do you have a pic? sorta confused. thought i posted mine. let me see if i still have the pic on my comp.

[blueprotegelx]

i do not have a pic....does yours still work ok? what type of sensor do u have?

[FL_PR5]

yea, mine works fine. its back to normal. i'm using the stock sensor that came with the temp gauge. i have a single wire coming from the gauge to be used as the ground only for this gauge so i know if it works or not. i have the ground at the loop behind the engine right above the IM. i believe it is a engine hoist spot? not sure though.

[livelyjay]

Nice write-up and pretty easy way of getting the sending unit installed. Much easier and user friendly than drilling, tapping, and JBWelding the sending unit into the thermostat housing. Guessing that hose you tapped into is the heater core hose. Any ways, subbing just in case I do this down the road.

[blueprotegelx]

yea, mine works fine. its back to normal. i'm using the stock sensor that came with the temp gauge. i have a single wire coming from the gauge to be used as the ground only for this gauge so i know if it works or not. i have the ground at the loop behind the engine right above the IM. i believe it is a engine hoist spot? not sure though.

maybe it's my sensor then. to me it sounds like i have everything hooked correctly, correct me if i'm wrong!
-i have a wire coming from my gauge to a spot along the wall for ground.
-i have a wire coming from the gauge that goes directly to the sensor.
-i have a wire tapped into the ^^^^above wire a couple inches before the sensor that is grounded to where the "Stock" water temp sensor is towards front of engine.

[FL_PR5]

well what you can do, this is what i did and it helped out a lot. it would be easier with a friend, but i did it by myself since it was a last minute project.

start your car up and when you see the gauge isnt reading right, move the ground to other spots that you know are grounded such as the block and all of that.

i dont know about the wire you tapped into, that could be it if you got the wires mixed up or not. but to eliminate any possible mistakes, just use individual wires to direct connections so you can eliminate the mis wiring.

[livelyjay]

- i have a wire tapped into the ^^^^above wire a couple inches before the sensor that is grounded to where the "Stock" water temp sensor is towards front of engine.

That's why your gauge isn't working. The temperature sending unit is grounded using the ground from the gauge, not the signal wire. Disconnect that tap and you'll be good to go.

[blueprotegelx]

That's why your gauge isn't working. The temperature sending unit is grounded using the ground from the gauge, not the signal wire. Disconnect that tap and you'll be good to go.


could you explain that a little bit more....remove the tap?

[blueprotegelx]

well i did all of it and it did not work still. so i took my sensor out and there was a bunch of gunk or something, and pretty much corroded the sensor. my bro had a sunpro water temp gauge with the coil sensor and gave it to me. i installed it and perfect. it came right on. it looks goofy though with a white face sun pro gauge and two ractive gauges. haha. o well

what is normal temp or what not? the gauge reads around 160ish....

[FL_PR5]

mine is always at 145-150 (can't tell any closer since the needle is so thick). but if it shoots above that then i know theres a problem either with the car, gauge, or ground.

[blueprotegelx]

mine is always at 145-150 (can't tell any closer since the needle is so thick). but if it shoots above that then i know theres a problem either with the car, gauge, or ground.

well hopefully it's just the ground then. i will try and change the ground to a different position. i am pretty sure that everything is hooked up correctly. if everything is correct then i am now worried that i have been driving w/ a motor that's been getting too hot!

[blueprotegelx]

does everyone else usually read around 145-150???

[FL_PR5]

I can't say. If no one replies here, post in another thread asking. Maybe general protege help/NA Tuning. Mine's just been steady here on that and it's too low on the gauge to be high, so I know it's not over heating. Try moving your ground to the block and try it out that way.

[blueprotegelx]

I can't say. If no one replies here, post in another thread asking. Maybe general protege help/NA Tuning. Mine's just been steady here on that and it's too low on the gauge to be high, so I know it's not over heating. Try moving your ground to the block and try it out that way.

i will try moving my ground to the block and report back. when u say move ground to block. do you mean the ground i have coming from the gauge itself where i have it running to the firewall in the interior? or adding a ground from the sensor to block? can u find any pics or draw an illustration? sorry for being complicated....

[mx-p5]

Alright, i have yet to do this yet, but, I'm running the Prosport temp sensor and no way is it gonna fit in the parts you have listed. What sensor are you using?

I'm gonna go to homedepot again and swap the stuff I bought for something that will fit. Hopefully I can get to doing it this weekend.

[mx-p5]

Here's the crown jewel of water temp installs!!!

Prosport Radiator Hose Adapter (http://prosportgauges.com/water-temp-sender-radiator-hose-adaptor.aspx)

[mx-p5]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13/cbrjeeper/DSC01297.jpg