1k Mi. First Oil Change Inquiry.

[gr3y]

So I've hit 1,000 miles.. and I've heard conflicting reports on what oil to use on my speed3.. synth or natural.

Any/all input would be great.

Pros/Cons of using Synth
Pros/Cons of using Natural

and any oil you sugggest.

Much appreciated!

[knowledge007]

I don't know man there are really no pros and cons with either. There are just myths that have been proven wrong with the mixture of synth and regular when switching. For some reason my mech recommended that I use regular for the first oil change then go to synth. I just completed my fourth oil change with synth. It just seems to me that the car runs a little smoother with the synth.

[gr3y]

I heard stock oil was Motocraft 5w-20 semi-synth.

Maybe I should use that?

This is my first turbo.. so not sure.. couple people have told me not to put synth in until like 5k+.. others have told me that's a myth and to start using synth now..

idk

[dkswim]

I like Mobil one fully synthetic. I will go to Mobil one after my first oil change. The reason for not changing to a fully synthetic after the first oil change is, when your engine is broke in small bits of metal are suspended in the oil for the first few oil changes. These particles help in the where in process. Synthetic oil has a lot of detergents in the oil that make the small metal particles bigger so they get trapped in the oil filter, and then your car never gets worn in correctly and your car eats oil and doesn’t perform as good as it could. Another good reason for using fully synthetic oil as its resistance to heat regular oil breaks down during hi temperatures, are cars being turbocharged run hotter then N/A engines.

[jhowey]

Mazda recommends 5W-30 in our cars. I have been running Redline since 3,000 miles.

[gr3y]

I also live in Hawaii.. if the heat and/or stop and go traffic makes a difference.

[GoFast]

I run amzoil full synth. I always have in all my cars. Just stick with the proper recommended 5w-30 for warmer climates.

[gr3y]

so just go with full synth, then?

any oil filter suggestions?

[GoFast]

fram or amsoil

[GoFast]

oh yeah, as for the synthetic, yep just switch it. far superior protection

[MS3ICA]

synthetic is better, the molecules are stable so they protect much better and absorb heat

[jhowey]

so just go with full synth, then?

any oil filter suggestions?

I would go full synth, with Redline Royal Purple or Amsoil, and stay factory with your filter, its the best one out there and it is cheaper then most aftermarkets unless your dealer is a butt.

[BlackCherry06]

If you're looking for a slightly less expensive option, Penzoil Platinum returns very good used oil analyses on this engine. Whatever you decide, I highly recommend a full synthetic oil for turbocharged applications. It has a superior resistance to thermal breakdown, prevents sludge and won't leave 'coking' deposits on your turbo bearings if you occasionally do a hot shut down (but don't do it anyway if you can help it).

[theurgy]

Royal Purple all the way.

[CaSHMeRe]

personally, i would go with just standard dino oil until you his the 5K mile mark, then switch to a synthetic of your choice.

[gr3y]

personally, i would go with just standard dino oil until you his the 5K mile mark, then switch to a synthetic of your choice.

wow confusing me more :(

and i just bought some 5w-30 redline. le-sigh..

I guess i could get an OEM filter.. gotta go down to the dealer to get my plates anyway. But I was going to grab a K&N today after work.. is the OEM one really better?

[sephiroth]

wait until 1000 at least, or until the manual says, and you don't want to go off running out and buying some royal purple (or even any synthetic) for the first 5,000 miles really.. most of the engine break in happens the first 1-2.5K miles, but additional break in happens after that as well, and because of that, high VI oils will prevent said break-in because of their high film stregnth, which is never a good thing.. so if you must change your oil using a good quality conventional, such as some valvoline or castrol GTX.

the OEM oil is crappy not because they cheap out on it, but because it needs to be crappy.

[CaSHMeRe]

wow, you guyz seem to be very uneducated.

break in doesn't go all the way up to 1.5-2K miles.

the most serious breakin happens within the first 20 miles...lol...go read up on ring sealing

[GoFast]

wow confusing me more :(

and i just bought some 5w-30 redline. le-sigh..

I guess i could get an OEM filter.. gotta go down to the dealer to get my plates anyway. But I was going to grab a K&N today after work.. is the OEM one really better?

understand that I am not meaning to sound cruel here, but you need to stop being so easily swayed in one direction then another if somebody says something different. There are thousands of websites that will educate you on all the different topics that have been made in this post.

The oem filter will work fine and isn't really better, but its not worse than the others. I personally have always run synthetic in all my vehicles. My MS3 was no different. I left the conventional oil in it for the first 1500 miles and switched to full synthetic right away.

instead of just taking every bodys post as the all mighty bible, do a little research on your own and draw your own conclusions

[dkswim]

Question didn’t your dealer offer the first oil change for free? That way they can get you in the door.

P.S. there are more then just piston rings that need to be broken in and the way that is prescribed through those post it doesn’t do anything good for any of those other parts. Just some food for thought. This is just my recommendations.

[gr3y]

Question didn’t your dealer offer the first oil change for free? That way they can get you in the door.

P.S. there are more then just piston rings that need to be broken in and the way that is prescribed through those post it doesn’t do anything good for any of those other parts. Just some food for thought. This is just my recommendations.

Dealer's first oil change is at 3 or 5k mi i forget no way am i letting the oil i have in there now sit in there any longer.

[BlackCherry06]

The only reason I would recommend an OEM filter is because if you're doing your own oil changes, and something happens to an aftermarket filter (it collapses, it clogs, it blocks oil flow in some way) you won't have a warranty leg to stand on. I'm sure the aftermarkets are fine, but using OEM will keep you out of that situation.

[jhowey]

Also most aftermarkets are not of the correct size and more expensive, when people put aftermarket oil filters in and come to our dealer the oil filter is slightly squished and twisted and you can see where the filter line squished in, right in the middle. So no you dont have to stay oem, but for the time being untill a company gets the sizing right I would stay factory.

[BlackCherry06]

I've seen more than a few posts (some with picures) of Purolators collapsing like jhowey mentioned. They likely still flow, but oil is probably making its way around the filter instead of through it.

[sephiroth]

The only reason I would recommend an OEM filter is because if you're doing your own oil changes, and something happens to an aftermarket filter (it collapses, it clogs, it blocks oil flow in some way) you won't have a warranty leg to stand on. I'm sure the aftermarkets are fine, but using OEM will keep you out of that situation.
using aftermarket oil filter's won't void your warranty, infact I believe it's illegal in the US to only warrant vehicles that are serviced with OEM parts. Only in the situation where user error and not mechanical error is at fault is there reason to deny warranty service.

[GoFast]

using aftermarket oil filter's won't void your warranty, infact I believe it's illegal in the US to only warrant vehicles that are serviced with OEM parts. Only in the situation where user error and not mechanical error is at fault is there reason to deny warranty service.

true unless the manufacturer provides you with free replacements

[wolverine81]

Mazda recommends 5W-30 in our cars. I have been running Redline since 3,000 miles.

Where does it say this? In the owner's manual it says to use 5w-20 and to use 5w-30 if 5w-20 is not available. Even the Mobil 1 website recommends 5w-20 for the Mazdaspeed3. I would like to see some confirmation on using 5w-30.

[GoFast]

it depends on the climate.

[Rotus8]

it depends on the climate.
The Mazdaspeed 3 requires 5W30 no matter what the climate. This is stated in the Service Manual and in the owner's manual. The owner's manual in the early cars said 5W20, but it was updated to say 5W30 for the turbo cars late last year.

[jhowey]

I work at a dealer, and the CX-7, Speed 3 and Speed 6 take 6 quarts or just under of 5w-30

[wolverine81]

The Mazdaspeed 3 requires 5W30 no matter what the climate. This is stated in the Service Manual and in the owner's manual. The owner's manual in the early cars said 5W20, but it was updated to say 5W30 for the turbo cars late last year.

I work at a dealer, and the CX-7, Speed 3 and Speed 6 take 6 quarts or just under of 5w-30

Cool. I got an updated manual and found it in there. Thanks for the info.

[dkswim]

??? has the service manual come out on PDF format ???

[wolverine81]

Owner's Manual, hard copy

[Tropez]

Why are you changing your oil at 1k miles? I have a regular M3 with 600 miles on it, did I miss something in the manual about the 1k thing?

[Rotus8]

Why are you changing your oil at 1k miles? I have a regular M3 with 600 miles on it, did I miss something in the manual about the 1k thing?
Some people (like me) are old school and think there is something to be gained from it. There is no recommendation from Mazda about it, but some feel better flushing break-in products from the oil early.

[Tropez]

Thanks. Makes sense.

[bast525]

Full synth for the win!

Look at the 'pros'... look at full blown race cars or the highest of the high end street cars. Why do cars like Porsche, Corvette or just about anything turbocharged RECOMMEND synthetic?

I don't know if the MS3 manual does but I know my SRT-4's manual made a very big deal about recommending synth oil.

The manufacturers know... they have tested it and shown that especially with a turbocharged or very high performance motor, synth protects better.

Don't expect real answers from a forum where everyone thinks they know... do your research by looking at the people who DO know.


And changing oil at 1k miles is a good idea. The break in oil will get dirty pretty quick from all the wear in metal. I changed mind right around 1500 and went with Mobil 1. After that I will go every 5000 miles as recommended in the manual though many people feel you can go longer on good synth oil... I'd rather do it 'by the book' in case any warranty issues ever come up, I have proof that I've been doing the factory recommended maintenance.