How To: Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Install [Archive]

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03BlkMicaSPD

10-30-2003, 01:40 AM

This is how I installed my Greddy Profec B Spec 2. Disclaimer crap: Use these instructions at your own risk. Install was easy and works perfectly for me.

Suggested: Disconnect the Negative battery terminal.

First, read the entire install instructions in the manual.
Now, check your parts list and make sure you have them all.

The first step in installing would be the boost gauge hose. Find the hose coming from the FPR as seen in the first picture. Cut it and install the three-way splitter. Cut a 6-inch piece of the supplied small hose (4mm) and connect it to the splitter. Now install the supplied filter and connect the remaining hose to the other side of the filter. Run the hose to the right side of the engine bay and leave it there for now.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/pic1.JPG

Next I installed the 6mm Brass hose fittings supplied into the "COM" and "NO" holes in the Valve Unit. Then I mounted the valve unit using the rubber washers supplied. I used the stock air box bolt because it was a perfect fit and location but you must have a CAI or SRI for this, otherwise find a location to mount the Valve Unit away from heat as much as possible. If you have it close enough to the wastegate you can use the hose already connected (allows evidence free removal). I had to remove the factory clamp because the hose would not quite reach.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/pic2.JPG

Now cut enough hose to reach from the "NO" hose fitting on the Valve unit, to the factory T splice in vac hose shown below. Remove bottom hose from wastegate and connect the new hose.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/pic3.JPG

Now depending on where you mounted your Valve Unit, Connect the hose from the wastegate that was removed from the T into the "COM" hose fitting on the Valve Unit, or remove the factory tamper proof clamp and vac hose from the wastegate and run a new longer one. Be sure to zip tie each new hose in place. Greddy supplies two hose clamps that I used at the Valve Unit connections.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/pic4.JPG

Now route the wire harness from the Valve Unit to the back right of the engine bay, being sure that it wont get pinched by anything when the hood is closed. Zip tie this in place also along its route to prevent it getting crushed or cut. Now locate the nice little grommet at the back right of the engine bay. Cut a slit in the right side that has nothing routed through it. Now this is the hard part. Push the vac hose for the boost gauge and the Valve Unit harness through this hole in the grommet. I used a flat head screwdriver to help me get them started, then found them under the dash and pulled them through. Be sure not to pull too much or you will disconnect the hose or break the wires.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/pic5.JPG

Now find a good place to mount the EBC Unit (but do not mount it yet). I chose the pocket under the center dash bezel because it required no extra holes for the hose and wires. Now route the hose and wires and zip tie them as you go. Removing the storage compartment under the radio makes this a little easier and also lets you connect the power and ground wires. Now tap the power wire and ground the black wire to a bolt in the body of the car. Sand the paint to ensure good contact is made. For the power I used the small red wire in the padded radio harness that is located right behind that pocket below the radio. It’s the only all red wire on the radio side of the harness. Now connect the vac hose, the harness from the Valve Unit, and the Power Harness to EBC unit. Mount the Unit with the double-sided tape.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/pic6.JPG

Test for power and make sure vac pressure is reading. Now tune it slowly by following the directions in the manual. Turn the large knob to increase boost by increments of two percent at a time and have a friend check your boost pressure at WOT. Increase until desired boost is reached. Don’t set "start boost" higher than your boost setting or it will cause over boost. I leave gain around 10. Boosting over 10 will hit fuel cut without FCD.

If you have any questions email me at Stang98chrome17s@aol.com
~John~

jrodhotrod

10-30-2003, 04:19 AM

nice how-to! Good Job. This will be very helpful when I go to put mine in.

jersey_emt

10-30-2003, 07:27 AM

Great job! I'm thinking about an EBC because I'm tired of my MBC spiking and creeping.

Saevii

11-01-2003, 10:16 AM

Nice work John! Did Matthew help at all or did you get to do all the work and take photos?

How much different does it drive now?
How's the new turbo working?

____________
Saevii
Titanum 03.5 MSP #944
(Now located in San Antonio, TX)

blindfury37

11-02-2003, 07:23 PM

Figures you post this a week after I finally get my installed! Nice write up, its almost exactly how mine went in.

03MSPRO

11-25-2003, 09:00 PM

does the Profec B have a built in boost gauge?

03BlkMicaSPD

11-25-2003, 11:24 PM

yes, only the spec 2

03MSPRO

11-26-2003, 09:12 AM

here's another dumb question, do you need a boost gauge with an EBC?

03BlkMicaSPD

11-26-2003, 12:11 PM

um, if you get the Spec 2, its built in, and if you dont, then yes you need a boost gauge.

Fai

05-22-2004, 02:57 PM

hey the pics are not showing up.... howcome??

msp4you

06-01-2004, 09:46 PM

good thing this is a howto huh?

hey the pics are not showing up.... howcome??

surfinflorida

06-10-2004, 08:09 PM

Any idea what happened to the pics?? Are they coming back??

03BlkMicaSPD

06-11-2004, 01:15 AM

Fixed

raup

07-02-2004, 02:33 AM

What happens if you already have the hose from the FPR that is already split to a boost gauge that you have installed in your car? Is it safe to use another T-splitter INSIDE the car so it splits to the profec B and the boost gauge at the same time without having any effects on boost readings or whatnot?

03BlkMicaSPD

07-02-2004, 09:52 AM

yes it is perfectly fine to use a splitter inside the car for both profe and boost gauge. That is how mine is installhttp://www2.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/P6220047.JPG ed now.

Mark94

03-05-2006, 06:24 PM

Question: I have a boost gauge already installed and it is connected via the manifold line.

Can I just leave the boost gauge the way it is, and hook up the GReddy unit via the FPR like it suggests in the manual and as demonstrated in this how-to?

There is also an "NC" port on the valve, does this need to be capped or you just leave it uncapped? The manual says to remove all cap covers.

Thanks!

Mark

geomatics_tech

03-06-2006, 05:07 PM

Mark94

03-07-2006, 04:51 PM

Great, thank you!

Mark

FF Racer

03-09-2006, 01:09 PM

03BlkMicaSPD

03-10-2006, 09:25 AM

It doesnt matter where you hook up the boost gauge on the EBC. actually I would reccomend going off of another vacuume source. in 90 degree + weather here in NC, The selonoid in the FPR vacuume line will switch off leaving me with no signal to the gauge portion of my EBC. This also puts you back to stock boost. It happened all the time when i was trying to get a pass in at the track. Going off the same line as your existing gauge would be the easiest route.

Wingman21

05-30-2006, 08:49 PM

Whats the size of the hose that goes to the wastegate?

540James

11-30-2006, 04:56 AM

it would also help is all of my directions/warranties/booklets, etc werent in japanese

GhostMercury

03-06-2007, 12:19 AM

does the length of hose and the amount of t's in it affect the boost reading? i have a vibrant vacuum block installed with 3 nipples on it.
-bov
-stock bpv
-AFC

i ran my boost gauge throught he car to the glove box and t'ed it off rite at the AFC so i could know the exact boost the afc was reading

now if i installed a T near the boost gauge to the EBC would it throw off the reading at all?

cougar10agREDUX

03-15-2009, 03:36 AM

good write up. i'm about to install mine... but you need to update your article. you teed off the wrong side of the FPR vaccum line. you need to tee off the little hose coming off the manifold going to the FPR solenoid so you get a clean signal without the solenoid.

cougar10agREDUX

03-15-2009, 03:41 AM

Is there a reason why they say to tee off the FPR line and not the intake manifold line? Do you get a more precise reading there? Because I was about to tee it off the manifold line just like the boost gauge install.

they do mean the manifold line, going to the FPR. in our case we have a solenoid so you need to go between the manifold and the solenoid. for people who don't know engines inside and out, it's the easiest one to find and it's guaranteed to see both vacuum and boost. some things require the use of a vacuum chamber, if you tee off one of the lines for them you will only see vaccum.

if it's coming directly off the manifold, it's safe to say it's a clean source. i'm teed into the FPR before the solenoid, and the line for my cruise control

SpeedAdiction20

04-22-2009, 05:35 PM

Ok, I was wondering why they were saying to T off the FPR line, when I have used the manifold and vac block as a source for everything so far....

but if I am understanding this correctly, the "COM" port goes to the WGA, the "NO" port goes to your vac source(FPR or Mani), and essentially is like sticking the valve unit in the middle of the vac line from the wga to the mani like a MBC normally would go right? and then from there you can just run your wires to the EBC unit...

also I just realized, the only stuff coming from the valve unit that goes into the cabin are the wires, and you run a separate vac source for the EBC's internal boost gauge right? which in my case I would run from my vac block(or T into my boost gauge line from inside the cabin most likely)

also the "NC" port, I don't have the unit infront of me now, but I am assuming that is some type of pressure release port on the valve unit and does not need to be connected to anything right?

does it sound like I have everything worked out?.. hook up the power/ground wires and all that junk and im all set? I was just thrown off by the FPR line, and wondering why they used that, makes more sense now

cougar10agREDUX

04-22-2009, 08:00 PM

COM, NC, and NO are the types oof ports or relay connections since the solenoid is essentially a relay. COM= common, NC=Normally closed, NO=Normally open.

how you hook it up depends on what setup you have, hook it up how the directions state. theres different way depending on if you have an internal or external WGA and stock boost/WGA solenoids or not.

SpeedAdiction20

04-22-2009, 08:43 PM

ok, but really what the directions are stating are to hook the COM port to the WGA, the NO port to the vac source and in this case the FPR ( I would rather hook it up to the mani like I have for other things because if I don' that leaves a vac port open that use to run to the WGA), I was just confused on how he had worded it, or how the pics showed where the lines were going, and in this it seems like they said (and didn't mention the NC port from what I saw) so from the posts above it sounds like I uncap it and that is it..

I just want to make sure there is nothing wrong the way I am hooking it up, for the MSP.. the directions are just worded a little funny and I tend to like to know why something is hooked up to something else, or what it does, just makes things easier for me if I know.

jeanspeed

07-17-2009, 03:23 AM

(inout)i finally found this thread.... this is what i was looking for. for some reason i hook my ebc the wrong way. i have it backwards

SpeedAdiction20

07-18-2009, 12:12 PM

backwards how?.. if you look at my last post, that is how I set it up. .and it works great

jeanspeed

07-27-2009, 01:56 PM

i had something wrong