How To: Gauge Dim With Cluster Dimmer

[MJG]

Well after messing around with the wires I finally figured out how to correctly make your gauges dim with factory.... On your dimmer switch is a blue/white and a green black you can hook both wires to either. You don't have to ground them to the car.. Trust me it works.... Hope i have helped everyone... Good Luck MJG

Also if you take the ground wire from the sidemarker light and run it up to your blinker in the middle and tag the light green wire not the dark green wire your marker lights will stay on with you parking lights and blink when needed..Once again it works well.... Good Luck MJG (burnout)

[MJG]

In case I forgot Its the two wires for your light blub..... You may have to catch the ignition and ground for the gauge to function.... Thanx

[t3ase]

Good info. Moved to How-To

[MJG]

Cool Thanx, T3ase.... I posted it where i did b/c it seems that some get confused with other cars and there wiring is different... We should have a how to in each section for different cars. What do you think.... Thanx again, MJG

[t3ase]

Actually, the wiring is *not* different when it comes to the dimmer.

[MJG]

O well,this is the proper way to do this mod..... Hope everyone can benefit from it.

[carbonkid]

Anyone know how to do this with a single illumination lead, as on my Defi D gauges? Thanks.

[carbonkid]

Anyone know how to do this with a single illumination lead, as on my Defi D gauges? Thanks.
I figured it out, i had to use the green lead at my dimmer switch as a groud for all 3 gauges, then i used the blue lead for the dimmable illumination to the gauges. I love it!!

[duMb KeoLa]

i dont get it...anyone got a wiring diagram or something for the first...sounds so easy but i cant seem to figure it out...thanks

[Leadfoot]

It's pretty straight forward.....you have 2 wires for your gauge lights, tap one into the green-black wire, then tap your other into the blue-white wire.

It will also be ALOT easier if you pop the dimmer switch loose from the dash, and then disconnect the wiring harness from the back to give you lots of room to work with under the dash.

i dont get it...anyone got a wiring diagram or something for the first...sounds so easy but i cant seem to figure it out...thanks

[GearSlammer]

i just bought a gauge and i think i have the same deal tytanium did with only one wire for the light source. is he saying he used the green-black wire as the ground source while using the blue-white wire as the light source? so you dont ground to the chassis? sorry if i sound weird.

[carbonkid]

Correct, no need to ground to chassis, just use the gr/bk wire for it.

i just bought a gauge and i think i have the same deal tytanium did with only one wire for the light source. is he saying he used the green-black wire as the ground source while using the blue-white wire as the light source? so you dont ground to the chassis? sorry if i sound weird.

[yashart_mp3]

I have an electric boost gauge though, and it says that I have to place the red wire to a +12v connection that always sees power (so that the auto zero function will work) Can I just hook this up to the battery, and hook up the black wire and white wire to my cars dimmer lights? Thanks

[carbonkid]

I have an electric boost gauge though, and it says that I have to place the red wire to a +12v connection that always sees power (so that the auto zero function will work) Can I just hook this up to the battery, and hook up the black wire and white wire to my cars dimmer lights? Thanks
my opinion is yes, this will work, but you will want to check with someone who has the same name brand b4 u start...(mine is mechanical)

[russwess]

this thread is pimp. Others were like, uhhh... it can't be done.... but this dude steped out and done it up. I like my dimming guages... Thanks MJG, your the sh%*!!!

[SNike05]

Will this work if I've already grounded my light to the chasis and simply connect the positive wire to the blue wire behind the dimmer?

[anarchistchiken]

Ok, so say I have two gauges, each with a seperate light bulb. Should I follow the same procedure and put both ground on the green/black and both powers on the blue/white or what?

Also I dont know if anyone else saw this, but the guy in post #15 has a 2001 Protege5

[SNike05]

Also I dont know if anyone else saw this, but the guy in post #15 has a 2001 Protege5

I hope thats a typo.

[twilightprotege]

i have a 2001 protege5....well 2001 323 Astina SP20 that is...purchased in may 01

[anarchistchiken]

i have a 2001 protege5....well 2001 323 Astina SP20 that is...purchased in may 01


Well here in America they only made them for 02 and 03. I just thought it was funny.

And I figured out my question, so no need to respond.

[livelyjay]

Here is a wiring diagram I set up for my Lancer. Instead of going to the dimmer switch I went to the cigarette lighter light bulb for the connections for the gauge bulbs. This might help clear things up for those who want a wiring diagram. My boost gauge was electric, so that's why there is a sending unit instead of just a plain vac line.

[SNike05]

Here is a wiring diagram I set up for my Lancer. Instead of going to the dimmer switch I went to the cigarette lighter light bulb for the connections for the gauge bulbs. This might help clear things up for those who want a wiring diagram. My boost gauge was electric, so that's why there is a sending unit instead of just a plain vac line.

But do they dim with the rest of the lights? That was the point of the how to.

[livelyjay]

But do they dim with the rest of the lights? That was the point of the how to.
Yes, they dim with the rest of the lights. You need to hook the gauges up to power and dimmer output. I did a search and someone said that there are three wires coming out of the MSP dimmer switch. If you hook up the gauges to the two striped wires, then you are good to go. On my Lancer, I just tapped into the two wires going into the cig lighter light, because it was connected right in with the dimmer.

On import cars, the dimmer switch is opposite that of domestics. The wire with the actual dimmer signal has a voltage of 1-3 volts when it's at the "brightest" setting and a voltage of 10-12 volts when at the "dimmest" setting. This is why hooking up ground and dimmer works in opposite. I haven't done any work with the MSP since I don't have mine yet, but that should give you a heads up. Once I get mine I'll borrow my friends multimeter and confirm which wires to tap into.

EDIT: And when I say POWER, I mean any lead that has 12 volts when at least the parking lights are on. Which is why accessory interior lights are the best to tap into.

[mspeedP5]

I have an electric boost gauge though, and it says that I have to place the red wire to a +12v connection that always sees power (so that the auto zero function will work) Can I just hook this up to the battery, and hook up the black wire and white wire to my cars dimmer lights? Thanks

So did this work okay? I have an Auto Meter Electric Oil Pressure gauge.

[t3ase]

if you need 12v constant, find it at the ignition harness.

[Professor MSP]

So did this work okay? I have an Auto Meter Electric Oil Pressure gauge.

I have an Autometer electronic boost gauge. For the 12 volt constant source, I found it easier to tap in to an open spot in the fuse panel on the left-hand side of the driver's footwell. I can confirm the exact location this evening if you so wish. Other than that, follow MJG's and Leadfoot's instructions for the other wires.

This is a very nice how-to that makes all the gauges more homogeneous.

[mspeedP5]

I can confirm the exact location this evening if you so wish.

If you could, that would be great! I'm actually in the process of installing right now... :)

[t3ase]

Fuse tapping is generally considered "rigging" things to work, even with a proper "fuse tap" piece. Generally, your best source is at the ignition harness.

[mspeedP5]

Okay, I have succeeded in getting what this thread is all about. My gauge lights are now controlled by my dash dimmer control!
Connecting the gauge controls will have to wait for another day, and another thread...
Thanks all!

[Professor MSP]

If you could, that would be great! I'm actually in the process of installing right now... :)

Sorry, I didn't check back until now. I will post the location this evening.

[Professor MSP]

Fuse tapping is generally considered "rigging" things to work, even with a proper "fuse tap" piece. Generally, your best source is at the ignition harness.

This is the first time I have heard such a thing. Thanks for the heads-up. What specifically makes the ignition harness better than a fuse tap?

What makes this all the more interesting is that I checked my fuse tap plan with the head Mazdaspeed technican before I embarked on it. He provided the exact location for the tap, along with the tap itself, and recommended it over splicing the ignition harness. So far no problems, but maybe I am just lucky.

[carbonkid]

prof, did it work for you?

[Professor MSP]

Sorry MspeedP5, I completely spaced on getting back to you. I will try to remember to check the precise fuse tap location this evening.

Tytanium, yes, following the above instructions and using the fuse tap has worked flawlessly.

[Professor MSP]

To find the fuse position for the constant 12 volt power source, open the panel to the fuse box in the driver's footwell. The configuration of the fuses is a 5 by 3 matrix (ignoring the few odd large fuses on the right-hand side of the box). The position to tap is row 4 column 1, using the (standard) convention that row 1 is the top row and column 1 is the left column.

Good luck!

[mspeedP5]

To find the fuse position for the constant 12 volt power source, open the panel to the fuse box in the driver's footwell. The configuration of the fuses is a 5 by 3 matrix (ignoring the few odd large fuses on the right-hand side of the box). The position to tap is row 4 column 1, using the (standard) convention that row 1 is the top row and column 1 is the left column.

Good luck!

Thank-you so much! (2thumbs)
I'm going to use one of these...
http://members.shaw.ca/mp5alive/images/P5/interior/addacircuit.jpg

[mspeedP5]

Hmm, something strange happening. When I use the "Add-A-Circuit" I do not get any power to the gauge. If I take it out and just jam my red wire into the open slot in my fuse box, it works! Because there was no fuse in the fuse box slot, I did not put one in the replacement slot of the "Add-A-Circuit", however I did put a fuse in the second slot for the gauge.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm no electrical wiz, so this shit's a bit of a mystery for me....

Edit: Here's a pic of where I'm tapping the fuse box for now. (Ignore the other "Add-A-Circuit". It's for my EL Sills.) I don't want to leave it like this though.

[Professor MSP]

Hmm, something strange happening. When I use the "Add-A-Circuit" I do not get any power to the gauge. If I take it out and just jam my red wire into the open slot in my fuse box, it works! Because there was no fuse in the fuse box slot, I did not put one in the replacement slot of the "Add-A-Circuit", however I did put a fuse in the second slot for the gauge.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm no electrical wiz, so this shit's a bit of a mystery for me....

Edit: Here's a pic of where I'm tapping the fuse box for now. (Ignore the other "Add-A-Circuit". It's for my EL Sills.) I don't want to leave it like this though.

You have tapped the correct position in the fuse matrix, so that's all fine.

The way mine is set up is that I have an in-line fuse in the fuse tap wire. Then I simply inserted the end of the in-line fuse wire in to the position you have it in. In other words, I have it set up like you have it in the picture, but with an in-line fuse in the fuse tap line.

It seems to me that you should have a fuse in the "Add-a-Circuit" if you wish to use it instead, as that would be analogous to how mine is set up.

Let me know how things go.

[mspeedP5]

You have tapped the correct position in the fuse matrix, so that's all fine.

The way mine is set up is that I have an in-line fuse in the fuse tap wire. Then I simply inserted the end of the in-line fuse wire in to the position you have it in. In other words, I have it set up like you have it in the picture, but with an in-line fuse in the fuse tap line.

It seems to me that you should have a fuse in the "Add-a-Circuit" if you wish to use it instead, as that would be analogous to how mine is set up.

Let me know how things go.

I wasn't sure about putting a fuse in the empty spot since there was no fuse in the original. Does it matter what size fuse? I did have a fuse in the "extra" circuit for the gauge itself though.
The other strange thing is that when I turn off the ignition, the gauge just sits where it was. I have to turn the key back on for the gauge to "zero" itself...?

Edit: I put a fuse in the empty spot and it works okay. Still have the "zero" issue though...

[Professor MSP]

I wasn't sure about putting a fuse in the empty spot since there was no fuse in the original. Does it matter what size fuse? I did have a fuse in the "extra" circuit for the gauge itself though.
The other strange thing is that when I turn off the ignition, the gauge just sits where it was. I have to turn the key back on for the gauge to "zero" itself...?

Edit: I put a fuse in the empty spot and it works okay. Still have the "zero" issue though...

Your gauge is working as it should be. When you turn the ignition off, the needle will remain in the position it was just prior to when you shut down. When you go to start your car again, you should turn the ignition on but not crank the engine for a few seconds. During this interval the needle on the gauge will rotate counterclockwise and read 30 inches Hg momentarily, and then rotate clockwise and come to rest at 0 inches Hg (this is the so-called auto calibration function). It is at this juncture that you may crank the engine. This process resets the zero point each time the gauge is turned on so as to compensate for operation at varying altitudes.

Good work! I really like the peak recall feature on my Autometer electronic boost/vac gauge. It saves me from having to guess what my peak boost is, and thus allows me to keep my eyes on the raod.

[Fede_italiano]

Your gauge is working as it should be. When you turn the ignition off, the needle will remain in the position it was just prior to when you shut down. When you go to start your car again, you should turn the ignition on but not crank the engine for a few seconds. During this interval the needle on the gauge will rotate counterclockwise and read 30 inches Hg momentarily, and then rotate clockwise and come to rest at 0 inches Hg (this is the so-called auto calibration function). It is at this juncture that you may crank the engine. This process resets the zero point each time the gauge is turned on so as to compensate for operation at varying altitudes.

Good work! I really like the peak recall feature on my Autometer electronic boost/vac gauge. It saves me from having to guess what my peak boost is, and thus allows me to keep my eyes on the raod.

Guys I have the same gauge with MAP sensor.
I have no instructions and I saw that you connect the 12V source for the MAP to the fuse box. Also you guys connected the bulb power to the dimmer switch. Does this make sense?

Thanks

[Professor MSP]

Guys I have the same gauge with MAP sensor.
I have no instructions and I saw that you connect the 12V source for the MAP to the fuse box. Also you guys connected the bulb power to the dimmer switch. Does this make sense?

Thanks

Yes, this appears to be correct. I have attached a pdf file with the installation instructions for the Autometer electronic boost guage.

Good luck!

[Fede_italiano]

Yes, this appears to be correct. I have attached a pdf file with the installation instructions for the Autometer electronic boost guage.

Good luck!
The add a circuit did not work on the empty spot and i put it in the door lock fuse next to the one that you indicated. It worked but after 20 seconds the alarm went off and the car got crazy. I guess the alarm monitors that fuse.

So I broke the thing and I am going back to using the empty slot. Stupid add a circuit.

I will try to wire the light with the dimmer tomorrow.

[Nutella]

I figured it out, i had to use the green lead at my dimmer switch as a groud for all 3 gauges, then i used the blue lead for the dimmable illumination to the gauges. I love it!!


I'm trying to hookup my gauges + gauge lights.
My gauges have a common ground wire with the gauge lights.

This doesn't make sense to me:

The common ground wire of the gauge and gauge lights is connected to the dimmer green ??

Then the gauge power wires should be connected to the ign switched source???

confused

[Fede_italiano]

I'm trying to hookup my gauges + gauge lights.
My gauges have a common ground wire with the gauge lights.

This doesn't make sense to me:

The common ground wire of the gauge and gauge lights is connected to the dimmer green ??

Then the gauge power wires should be connected to the ign switched source???

confused
Nothing is connected to the ignition of you want dimmable gauges.
The power and grond are spliced into the 2 wires coming of the switches.
I tried and it works.
I believe the color are white green and blue black. Anyway the color is well described few post above.
Good luck.

[Nutella]

Nothing is connected to the ignition of you want dimmable gauges.
The power and grond are spliced into the 2 wires coming of the switches.
I tried and it works.
I believe the color are white green and blue black. Anyway the color is well described few post above.
Good luck.


Ok thanks, but I understand the connection for the dimmed gauge light.
1) green wire on dimmer switch is a GROUND for all gauge light.
2) blue wire on dimmer goes to the lights for dimmable illumination.

Now regarding the gauge 12V power (which should be switched):
3) how can you connect the gauge 12V wire to the dimmer green wire?
That means variable voltage to the gauge power! thats why Im confused here.

[Fede_italiano]

Ok thanks, but I understand the connection for the dimmed gauge light.
1) green wire on dimmer switch is a GROUND for all gauge light.
2) blue wire on dimmer goes to the lights for dimmable illumination.

Now regarding the gauge 12V power (which should be switched):
3) how can you connect the gauge 12V wire to the dimmer green wire?
That means variable voltage to the gauge power! thats why Im confused here.
Connect the power to the fuse box. Not the dimmer!
There is pic.

[Nutella]

One last thing I promise!

re: 1) green wire for ground.
-My gauge light ground wire is shared with the gauge main ground wire for the whole gauge.

That means the gauge main ground wire cannot be put to the chassis. But will be on the green. Is that correct?

[Fede_italiano]

One last thing I promise!

re: 1) green wire for ground.
-My gauge light ground wire is shared with the gauge main ground wire for the whole gauge.

That means the gauge main ground wire cannot be put to the chassis. But will be on the green. Is that correct?
you cannot splice the wire in 2?
Well if it is shared inside, I am afraid that if you connect the GND for the gauge to a variable voltage source ike the dimmer, it might cause the gauges to not work well when you are dimming the lights.
It depends on how the car wiring is done from Mazda and I am not sure how the dimmer is wired.
Sorry.
Someone help here...

[Nutella]

you cannot splice the wire in 2?
Well if it is shared inside, I am afraid that if you connect the GND for the gauge to a variable voltage source ike the dimmer, it might cause the gauges to not work well when you are dimming the lights.
It depends on how the car wiring is done from Mazda and I am not sure how the dimmer is wired.
Sorry.
Someone help here...


thats EXACTLY what I got. Gauges have this coming out of it:

-light source wire
-12V+ wire
-ONE common ground
-signal wire

Hence all this confusion. But now I know I cannot dim it with the Protege dimmer. Its either on or off.

[Fede_italiano]

thats EXACTLY what I got. Gauges have this coming out of it:

-light source wire
-12V+ wire
-ONE common ground
-signal wire

Hence all this confusion. But now I know I cannot dim it with the Protege dimmer. Its either on or off.
Do you have a pic.
I would like to see the common ground.
I am glad you are using electric gauges.
I f it helps you mone dims but I never dim them.

[P5inder]

Hello,

I know, old thread revival...

I am about to install two gauges. Both electrical, lit with LED's. One vacuum, one oil pressure. The Vacuum is very straight forward. The oil pressure (op), however is a little more complicated.

I have five wires coming out of the op gauge, according to the very, very cryptic intructions, the green is the signal from the sensor, the red goes to the ACC???(ignition?), the white goes to the lighting, the black goes to ground and the orange goes directly to the battery...

According to the above and previous pages, I would hook up the white (gauge ligting) to the blue/white wire and the black (Gauge ground) to the green/black wire, correct? Will I have any problems with dimming LED's? And...will I have to use a fuse(s)?

If so, why do I need to hook up a red to the ACC and an orange to the battery? Sorry, new at this stuff and am trying to get this done.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[frenchy92005]

thanks this worked great!!!!

[musiclikscreams]

i just put some gauges in and i've been wantin to do somethin like this. i'll have to get on it once i get back in town

mspeedp5, whats that button on u got on the fuse cover for?