ZapWizard
03-29-2004, 07:37 PM
If a moderator could please move this into the how-to forum, thanks.
Replacing the A/C Control lights
on a 2003 Mazda Protégé LX
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/12-Complete.jpg http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/13-Nightshot.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/1-Controls.jpg
This modification will get rid of the mix of green and orange that your current control status LEDs
(The A/C, Fresh-Return, and Defrost LEDs)
I choose to use red, rather then blue, as red lights will not deminish your night vision while driving.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tools needed:
Philips screwdriver
Small flathead screwdriver.
Needle nose, or similar pliers
Low power (15-watt) soldering iron
4 Bright LEDs of the color you choose.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/glovebox.jpg
First remove the glove box.
Open it, push in the sides at the top, gently lower it, the pull towards the driver side, and down to release.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Glovebox-Off.jpg
Look inside and towards the drivers seat.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable1.jpg
Locate the temperature control cable and disconnect it.
Gently push the tab in and pull the cable off the white control arm.
The push down on the black metal holder, and pull the cable surround out.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Drivers-side.jpg
Next move the drivers side, and locate the vent control cable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable2.jpg
Repeat the same steps to disconnect the vent control cable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Pulling-Panel.jpg
Next you need to pull the center panel out.
This is done by pushing the vents down, and pulling with both hands.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Connectors.jpg
With the center panel hanging out, disconnect the hazard signal button,
and the two connectors at the rear of the A/C control assembly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/assembly.jpg
You can now remove the entire center panel.
Be careful to note how the control cables come out, so that you can put back in the correct way.
Once removed unscrew the A/C control assembly from the front panel.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Faceplate.jpg
With the panel removed, carefully pull the three control knobs off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Faceplate-Knobs.jpg
You should now have no knobs on the front.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Faceplate-removed.jpg
Pull the front faceplate off by pulling up on the two holding tabs on each side.
You will see a circuit board behind the faceplate, don't pull on it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable.jpg
We need to get under the other black plastic cover.
But first you need to remove the temperature control cable.
Do this by spreading the center tabs on the white holder, while pulling on the black cable surround.
Do not try to pry the cable out, or pull up in any way!
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Cable-Pull.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable-up.jpg
Once the black surround is out you can tilt the cable up, and out of the control arm.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Circuit-Cover.jpg
You can then unscrew the circuit cover and remove it.
There are two push tabs towards the front holding it in place.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/1-screws.jpg
There are two screws on the bottom PCB (Printed Circuit Board), they don't need to be removed.
(They hold the connector onto the PCB)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/2-screws.jpg
There are two screws on the front PCB, you can removed these, and remove both PCBs together.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/3-pcb.jpg
Once the PCB is removed you can take it inside for soldering.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/4-leds.jpg
Note that the LEDs used are flattened.
If you are ordering new LEDs you can order bright, flat LEDs.
Or if you are like me, you can modify normal 5mm LEDs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/5-leds.jpg
Only the top two of the four LEDs needs to be flattened.
(The A/C and Defrost LEDs)
You flatten them by sanding each side of the LED.
I flattened them until they fit freely into the button holes.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/6-led.jpg
You should now be ready to replace the old LEDs on the PCB
Note the Diode symbol near the LED, this shows which way to install the LED.
Most LEDs come with one short leg, this is the negative side, or the side that the symbol is pointing.
You can also often tell by looking into the LED, the larger metal piece inside the LED is usually the ground.
(The superbright red LEDs I used were the exception)
The only way to be sure is to try installing them, and if they don't work, removing and reversing their direction.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/7-Replaced.jpg
Use a low power (15-20 watt) soldering iron and remove and replace each LED.
You do this by gently pulling up on the LED while heating the solder on the PCB.
Soldering in a new LED requires careful heating and pushing in the LED into the existing solder.
-OR- you can remove the old solder with de-soldering wick, and apply fresh solder to the new LEDs.
I used a high power iron, and ended up damaging some of the traces on the PCB, and had to repair them with wire.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/8-Testing.jpg
Once all the LEDs have been changed over you can connect the PCB to the car and test it.
Make sure and connect the fan-speed control switch also, or the A/C won't function.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/9-Installed.jpg
You can then install the PCB back into the white control assembly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/10-Testing.jpg
Note that I also replaced the green backlights with RED 10mm 12volt LEDs, and I also
added a blue frosted LED to the corner to light up the cold side of the control panel.
I have no guide on these though, as they are a little rigged.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/11-Testing.jpg
You can then install the front cover and knobs, and re-test the unit.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/12-Complete.jpg
Then put everything back together in reverse order.
By using super-bright LEDs the indicators are day-light visible, and very sharp looking.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/13-Nightshot.jpg
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/14-below.jpg
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/15-side.jpg
The night shot shows the great look of the Red control panel.
By adding a blue LED to the corner I was able to keep the blue side of the control panel even, and good looking.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/16-above.jpg
This is my first step towards a completely red control panel.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/17-radio.jpg
Next hopefully will be the radio backlights.
Replacing the A/C Control lights
on a 2003 Mazda Protégé LX
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/12-Complete.jpg http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/13-Nightshot.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/1-Controls.jpg
This modification will get rid of the mix of green and orange that your current control status LEDs
(The A/C, Fresh-Return, and Defrost LEDs)
I choose to use red, rather then blue, as red lights will not deminish your night vision while driving.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tools needed:
Philips screwdriver
Small flathead screwdriver.
Needle nose, or similar pliers
Low power (15-watt) soldering iron
4 Bright LEDs of the color you choose.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/glovebox.jpg
First remove the glove box.
Open it, push in the sides at the top, gently lower it, the pull towards the driver side, and down to release.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Glovebox-Off.jpg
Look inside and towards the drivers seat.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable1.jpg
Locate the temperature control cable and disconnect it.
Gently push the tab in and pull the cable off the white control arm.
The push down on the black metal holder, and pull the cable surround out.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Drivers-side.jpg
Next move the drivers side, and locate the vent control cable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable2.jpg
Repeat the same steps to disconnect the vent control cable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Pulling-Panel.jpg
Next you need to pull the center panel out.
This is done by pushing the vents down, and pulling with both hands.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Connectors.jpg
With the center panel hanging out, disconnect the hazard signal button,
and the two connectors at the rear of the A/C control assembly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/assembly.jpg
You can now remove the entire center panel.
Be careful to note how the control cables come out, so that you can put back in the correct way.
Once removed unscrew the A/C control assembly from the front panel.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Faceplate.jpg
With the panel removed, carefully pull the three control knobs off.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Faceplate-Knobs.jpg
You should now have no knobs on the front.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Faceplate-removed.jpg
Pull the front faceplate off by pulling up on the two holding tabs on each side.
You will see a circuit board behind the faceplate, don't pull on it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable.jpg
We need to get under the other black plastic cover.
But first you need to remove the temperature control cable.
Do this by spreading the center tabs on the white holder, while pulling on the black cable surround.
Do not try to pry the cable out, or pull up in any way!
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Cable-Pull.jpg
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/cable-up.jpg
Once the black surround is out you can tilt the cable up, and out of the control arm.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/air/Circuit-Cover.jpg
You can then unscrew the circuit cover and remove it.
There are two push tabs towards the front holding it in place.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/1-screws.jpg
There are two screws on the bottom PCB (Printed Circuit Board), they don't need to be removed.
(They hold the connector onto the PCB)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/2-screws.jpg
There are two screws on the front PCB, you can removed these, and remove both PCBs together.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/3-pcb.jpg
Once the PCB is removed you can take it inside for soldering.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/4-leds.jpg
Note that the LEDs used are flattened.
If you are ordering new LEDs you can order bright, flat LEDs.
Or if you are like me, you can modify normal 5mm LEDs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/5-leds.jpg
Only the top two of the four LEDs needs to be flattened.
(The A/C and Defrost LEDs)
You flatten them by sanding each side of the LED.
I flattened them until they fit freely into the button holes.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/6-led.jpg
You should now be ready to replace the old LEDs on the PCB
Note the Diode symbol near the LED, this shows which way to install the LED.
Most LEDs come with one short leg, this is the negative side, or the side that the symbol is pointing.
You can also often tell by looking into the LED, the larger metal piece inside the LED is usually the ground.
(The superbright red LEDs I used were the exception)
The only way to be sure is to try installing them, and if they don't work, removing and reversing their direction.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/7-Replaced.jpg
Use a low power (15-20 watt) soldering iron and remove and replace each LED.
You do this by gently pulling up on the LED while heating the solder on the PCB.
Soldering in a new LED requires careful heating and pushing in the LED into the existing solder.
-OR- you can remove the old solder with de-soldering wick, and apply fresh solder to the new LEDs.
I used a high power iron, and ended up damaging some of the traces on the PCB, and had to repair them with wire.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/8-Testing.jpg
Once all the LEDs have been changed over you can connect the PCB to the car and test it.
Make sure and connect the fan-speed control switch also, or the A/C won't function.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/9-Installed.jpg
You can then install the PCB back into the white control assembly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/10-Testing.jpg
Note that I also replaced the green backlights with RED 10mm 12volt LEDs, and I also
added a blue frosted LED to the corner to light up the cold side of the control panel.
I have no guide on these though, as they are a little rigged.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/11-Testing.jpg
You can then install the front cover and knobs, and re-test the unit.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/12-Complete.jpg
Then put everything back together in reverse order.
By using super-bright LEDs the indicators are day-light visible, and very sharp looking.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/13-Nightshot.jpg
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/14-below.jpg
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/15-side.jpg
The night shot shows the great look of the Red control panel.
By adding a blue LED to the corner I was able to keep the blue side of the control panel even, and good looking.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/16-above.jpg
This is my first step towards a completely red control panel.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.zapwizard.com/Car/aclights/17-radio.jpg
Next hopefully will be the radio backlights.