How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears

[TurfBurn]

Some tools you will need for the project:

Drain Pan
4 Jack Stands
Jack
Impact Wrench
Torque Wrench
Creeper (optional)
14mm - sockets and wrenches
12mm - sockets and wrenches
19mm - sockets and wrenches
1-1/4" socket (or 32mm is the same size)
17mm - sockets and wrenches
10mm - sockets and wrenches
Instant Gasket
Pickle Fork Set
Liquid Wrench (WD40 or the like)
Grease
3 quarts of manual tranny fluid of your choice. (I personally like Redline Shockproof Lightweight)
Tranny Jack or a buddy to help you (Tranny weighs 95 lbs and fits in tight)

The install time will range between 8 hours and 24 hours of labor depending on how smoothly things go.

Parts I recommend you replace when doing this: LSD bearings, tranny seals, throw out bearing

I VERY highly recommend that you label each bolt and part when you take it out. So have a permanent marker and some masking tape handy.

some necessary part numbers courtesy of Prodigy:
G15M-R Part #'s ('01-'03 Mazda Protege manual transmission)
Oil seal
F003-27-238B
Transmission locking nuts
F520-17-628
F521-17-628a

[TurfBurn]

One of the first steps to this is to try and get the car as high in the air as you can with jack stands. It's also important to support it with 4 jack stands when it is up so high so that it is not at an angle and possibly dangerous.

Once the car is up in the air, remove the driver's side wheel (if you didn't break the lugs loose beforehand have someone hold the brakes while you do).

Underneath on the bottom of the tranny there is a 22mm bolt that is the drain plug. Remove this and fully drain the tranny. Then set aside the fluid and replace the plug.

While the tranny is draining start removing engine compartment components.
- Take off the strut bar if you have one
- Take off the battery connections (negative then positive is what I usually do)
- Remove the battery
- Remove your air filter and any intakes or charge pipe or so forth from the throttle body all the way out.
- Remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the battery holder in.

[TurfBurn]

Next disconnect the 3 connectors that are on the tranny. The neutral switch, the reverse light switch, and the speedo sensor. The neutral and reverse light switches are on leads and should come up near the engine mount itself. One is grey and the other black I believe. The speedo is on the back top side of the tranny more or less on the tranny directly below the throttle body.

Then get each the two or three clips off of the brass looking assembly on the back left side of the tranny that are holding the wiring bundles down.

Once you have done that use a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt that holds a ground wire in place. After this all of the wire bundles and connectors should now be off of the tranny.

One of the remaining things is the clutch line which will be clipped to a holder on the front edge of the tranny. Pry the metal clip off with a screw driver and set it aside.

With the clip off, then use a socket to loosen the 2 12mm bolts that hold the clutch actuator mechanism to the side of the tranny. Once you remove the actuator either label and set aside those bolts or thread them back into the block finger tight.

[TurfBurn]

Now going to the driver's side wheel wheel remove the clip holding the brake line onto the strut assembly.

Then remove the ball joint clamping bolt with a 14mm socket and a 14mm wrench. It may be rusted as well as the link/rod going into this assembly from the ball joint, so I soaked the area down well with Gunk Liquid wrench and it helped considerably!

With that bolt out, wrap your ball joint dust cover with a shop rag. Then use a pickle fork to seperate the control arm/ball joint from the wheel assembly. You may need a second pickle fork or something else to get enough movement to get the solid rod all the way out of the wheel assembly.

Once this is out I found it most convenient to remove the control arm, but I don't know as this is necessary. But to do so:

Remove the 5 17mm bolts that hold the control arm on. You may need an impact wrench to get these loose. With those out you should be able to free the control arm. Clean it up from any excess oil and road dirt if you like and set it aside.

Also at this time remove the rear brace that connects from one side of the car to the other where the control arms are. It is held on with 4 17mm bolts. Again you may need an impact wrench or breaker bar to get these loose.

Picture: Wheel assembly and the "clamping" bolt.

[TurfBurn]

Next you should support the engine as you'll begin removing engine mounts.

I don't know as it is the best way to do things, but what I did was used a solid block (use wood or whatever is easiest, but needs to be pretty robust) and jacked that up against the oil pan enough to hold it, but not to generate any major force on the oil pan, as that my actually damage the pan.

With the engine supported. I then removed the 2 17mm nuts that hold the front engine mount onto the lower engine brace. Then I removed the 2 17mm bolts that hold the brace to the front of the car. And lastly I removed the 1 17mm nut that holds the brace on at the rear of the engine bay. I again cleaned up the brace and set it aside.


Picture: Some pieces including lower and rear engine brace, control arm, and front engine mount.

[TurfBurn]

Next I removed the driver's side engine mount. There are 2 17mm bolts and 2 17mm nuts that hold the bottom of the bracket onto the tranny. And then one 17mm bolt that goes through rubber mount portion. After removing those bolts the mount assembly should come out.

At this time if you haven't already you can go ahead and tug the half shaft out of the tranny. The wheel assembly should be free to swing about a bit so you can get enough motion to try and get your hands in and pull on the half shaft to get it out of the tranny. Be careful if you decide to try prying on anything as you don't want to damage any of the axle components.

[TurfBurn]

Next, go under the car to the rear of the transmission and disconnect the shift linkages. There is one 14mm nut and one 12mm nut that you need to loosen. Then you can free the linkages. Again put the nuts and bolts somewhere safe.

Also, since I was using the 12 and 14mm tools at this point I removed the 12 and 14mm bolts that are along the bottom edge of the tranny on the engine side of the flange that is mating with the bell housing. I labeled these on a diagram of bolts that I was removing from the bell housing flange area and set them aside.

[TurfBurn]

Next I disconnected the engine/tranny from the rear engine mount assembly by removing the 3 17mm bolts that go through the engine mount assembly. I also removed the 12mm bolt holding the starter on and also a 19mm bolt that is part of mounting the bell housing to the engine.

Edit after that you can remove the remaining bolts that are holding the tranny to the engine from the tranny side of things. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the starter on, 4 19mm bolts (3 are easy to see, the 4th is tucked in by the front engine mount bracket). And then one 14mm bolt I believe that is down below the front mount brace on the bottom edge of the bell housing.

With these bolts out the tranny can be removed from the car. A little wiggling will be necessary to get it to start to come loose. After that you can pull the tranny toward the side of the car as much as possible, You should then be able to get it to clear the driveshaft. Tilt the tranny down toward the front of the car (you'll still be hung up on the passenger side half shaft) and then you can try to twist the tranny toward the driver's side of the car and hopefully it will come out nicely. It can take some monkeying and more likely than not you will ruin the passenger side oil seal when you try to get it over that half shaft.

[TurfBurn]

Next remove the black end cap of the tranny by removing and saving all of the 10 mm bolts.

After removing that end cap you can see the reverse gearing. Get each of the locking nuts cleared to be removed with the impact wrench by using a screw driver or chisel or the like to bend the nut flange back out so that the nut can be rotated. Then hit the nuts with a 32mm (1.25") socket in bursts with the impact wrench so that you can get them off.

Then I recommend taking a number of closeup pictures of the gearing, and then pulling it off carefully and setting it out on clean paper so that you can remember the order it goes on with.

To get the shift fork off on this end you will have to use a punch to try and knock out the roll pin. Do this carefully and set aside the roll pin.

[TurfBurn]

Next you'll want to remove a small ball and spring that are hidden on the tranny. You'll remove the bolt with I think a 14mm socket, and then you can get out the spring with a screw driver by pulling it up. I tipped the tranny over and got the ball out into my hand or you can use a magnetic pickup. Carefully wrap these up in tape so you don't lose them or have them roll away.

Then you can remove the two side bolts that are holding parts of the rods on the inside. They are both 12mm and are shown in one of the pictures below.

[TurfBurn]

After removing the small components you can now remove all of the 14 mm bolts that mate the gear box to the bell housing. Before doing so make note of where each of the brackets is and how it is position and so forth.

With the bolts all removed you can pull straight up on the gear box to get it to come loose. The gasket may hold on though, and I simply struck it a few times with a rubber dead blow mallet to break the seal. After that it slides apart easily.

Then, you can pull the magnet out from next to the drain plug and clean it off before setting it back into the it's location.

The next thing you have to do is manually "shift" the tranmission so that you can get the gearing into a position such that it allows you to remove a roll pin that holds the shifting linkages in the middle together so that you will be able to lift both the shafts up to get the differential in and out. To do that you need to push the 1-2 fork (the big one that is down low as you are looking at the tranny) down all the way into gear. Then you pull the 3-4 fork up all the way into that gear. With that in place you should have the linkages positioned like in the pictures. With them as such you can then knock out that roll pin and will then be able to lift the shafts up enough to lift out your differential and then put in your other differential.

Hopefully you prepared your new differential beforehand by putting on the speedo gear (if you don't have ABS... if you have ABS there is no speedo gear) and pressing on new roller bearings on each end of the diff.

Put the differential in. Get the shifting linkages in the middle aligned and setup like the pictures again and put the roll pin back in.

NOTE: When I did this I also had one of the new revised 1-2 shift forks. It can not be installed using the disassembly method I indicated here as you can not get the linkages lined up properly again due to a larger shoulder on the shift fork. Other disassembly that I did not attempt to figure out is required.

[TurfBurn]

After putting the differential in and then realigning the shift linkages and putting the roll pin back in shift both the 1-2 and the 3-4 to the middle or neutral of their gear sets. Then you can then work on the gasket. Clean off all the extra oil or so forth on the sealing face, and then with a rag dipped in the extra oil rub off any remaining gasket. Get it pretty clean. Then wipe it down with a clean rag. Apply an even unbroken small bead all the way around the transmission. After doing that set the upper encloser back over the gear set and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Then tighten down a few bolts to hold it in place.

Put the two small bolts you removed from the side back in (they will have to line up properly with the shift linkage and the receiver on the reverse idler gear shaft properly. Make sure you have things lined up before you put the top cover back on and bolt it down.). With those bolts back in place replace the reverse gearing on the top. Put the fork on and hand tighten new lock nuts on the gearing. The reason for doing all this and not re-assembling the tranny completely is to test the shifting.

To test shifting you can put a screw driver through the actuator rod. if you push the rod toward the tranny you will select one gear, then pulling it back out you will hit neutral then further out the next gear. Pushing it back to the middle you can twist the actuator with the screwdriver toward yourself and then push the actuator toward or away from the tranny to check those two gears. Back in the middle now twist the actuator away from yourself and check the two gears there.

Assuming all the gearing worked fine you can then put in all the 14mm edge bolts and tighten them down. Then put in the ball and spring.

Next use an impact wrench to tighten down the locking nuts in bursts on the reverse gearing. Then knock in the flanges to lock the nuts in place. Create a new gasket around the edge and put the black end cap on and tighten it down. Pull out the oil seals from the differential casing and replace them. You can tap them into place with a blunt object by gently going around the edge of them.

You should then have all the parts back on the tranny and be ready to put it in the car.

[TurfBurn]

To put the tranny in the car you will have to very carefully work to get it up and over the driveshaft and the passenger side half shaft without damaing the oil seal on the differential casing. I used a rag to help out on that a little bit. After a lot of fiddling around and grunting you'll probably get it in place. It will not seat all the way up to the engine though more likely that not. Both times that I worked on this I could not get the half shaft to seat easily and had trouble with the driveshaft as well making it quite difficult. What i did was get it as close as possible and then used the 19mm bolt on the back side by the rear engine mount and the 19mm bolt on the front side by the front engine mount. I threaded them both in a little bit and progressively tightened them down until the tranny seated. Do this carefully so that you do not pinch, bend, or break anything.

After you get the tranny seated, just put all your bolts back in and parts back on in the reverse order.

Fill the tranny up through the front fill location which is a 23mm bolt as well. Make sure you do it with the car on the ground and level. Fill it up until a little drips out the hole and you should be all set. It took about 3 quarts even for me.

Good luck with your install!

Steve

[tyusha]

holly molly you are a brave man Steve. Awesome write up....

[TurfBurn]

Actually, I learned most of it doing it the first time with Little Beavis on his car. He was the brave one, I just redid the work, and documented it so I could do a write up. But let me know if you have any questions or need assistance if you ever do it as I'm happy to help or walk you through things.

later.

Steve

[melicha8]

You are the fuckin' man thank you thank you thank you. I've been waiting for this how to for about 2 years now

[Little Beavis]

Whew. . .saves me from doing a write up. Nice work bro! Obviously you've got more time on your hands than me these days. :D

I've got your next write up! How to turn your NA protege into a MSP - FI motor!

[dominoy2k1]

damn this has to be the best walkthrough since the ...shit since ever.

[PRO 5]

Good job Steve! I know I sure as hell wasn't going to do a write up. Hahaha!

Dave

[roni]

yes good write up steve. (headbang) :cool:


not something i will be attempting because i've already had my lsd installed. but every day i have been contemplating dropping my tranny and cracking it open to fix the 5th problems i've been having

[TurfBurn]

ouch. you might want a video camera for this next project. just make sure that you warn people about the foul language!
ROFLMAO

[roni]

Steve,

Thanks! :D

tranny is out!

[LinuxRacr]

Wow...I totally missed this thread. I guess I will use this to do my tranny work soon. (eekdance)

[roni]

Wow. Okay. Update over here. My 5th gear has a chipped tooth. :D

[JDM Sam]

roni - buy an emco hardened gear set for 3rd, 4th, and 5th from mazdamotorsports.

<TABLE borderColor=#cccccc cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=1 x:str><TBODY><TR height=17><TD width="20%" height=17>0000-02-3601</TD><TD width="8%">http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/wcscp/images/cameraicon.gif (javascript:partWin('http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&id=20135'))</TD><TD width="30%">FINAL DRIVE, 4.833</TD><TD width="30%">For G-type trans - includes bolts</TD><TD align=right width="12%">4/9/2001</TD></TR><TR height=17><TD width="20%" height=17>0000-02-3601-BT</TD><TD width="8%"> </TD><TD width="30%">BOLT, 4.85 FINAL DRIVE</TD><TD width="30%">Bolts for above</TD><TD align=right width="12%">8/28/2001</TD></TR><TR height=34><TD width="20%" height=34>0000-02-3701</TD><TD width="8%"> </TD><TD width="30%">GEAR SET, 3RD</TD><TD width="30%">Hardened gear from Emco 23-31, 1.3478 for world challenge</TD><TD align=right width="12%">11/21/2001</TD></TR><TR height=34><TD width="20%" height=34>0000-02-3702</TD><TD width="8%"> </TD><TD width="30%">GEAR SET, 4TH</TD><TD width="30%">Hardened gear from Emco 28-31, 1.108 for world challenge</TD><TD align=right width="12%">11/21/2001</TD></TR><TR height=34><TD width="20%" height=34>0000-02-3703</TD><TD width="8%"> </TD><TD width="30%">GEAR SET, 5TH</TD><TD width="30%">Hardened gear from Emco 40-39, 0.975 for world challenge</TD><TD align=right width="12%">11/21/2001</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[roni]

roni - buy an emco hardened gear set for 3rd, 4th, and 5th from mazdamotorsports.

<TABLE borderColor=#cccccc cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=1 x:str><TBODY><TR height=17><TD width="20%" height=17>0000-02-3601</TD><TD width="8%">http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/wcscp/images/cameraicon.gif (http://javascript<img%20src=&quot;http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/ubb/tongue.gif&quot;%20border=&quot;0&quot;%20alt=&quot;&quot;%20title=&quot;Stick%2 0Out%20Tongue&quot;%20smilieid=&quot;6&quot;%20/>artWin('http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PartDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&id=20135'))</TD><TD width="30%">FINAL DRIVE, 4.833</TD><TD width="30%">For G-type trans - includes bolts</TD><TD align=right width="12%">4/9/2001</TD></TR><TR height=17><TD width="20%" height=17>0000-02-3601-BT</TD><TD width="8%"></TD><TD width="30%">BOLT, 4.85 FINAL DRIVE</TD><TD width="30%">Bolts for above</TD><TD align=right width="12%">8/28/2001</TD></TR><TR height=34><TD width="20%" height=34>0000-02-3701</TD><TD width="8%"></TD><TD width="30%">GEAR SET, 3RD</TD><TD width="30%">Hardened gear from Emco 23-31, 1.3478 for world challenge</TD><TD align=right width="12%">11/21/2001</TD></TR><TR height=34><TD width="20%" height=34>0000-02-3702</TD><TD width="8%"></TD><TD width="30%">GEAR SET, 4TH</TD><TD width="30%">Hardened gear from Emco 28-31, 1.108 for world challenge</TD><TD align=right width="12%">11/21/2001</TD></TR><TR height=34><TD width="20%" height=34>0000-02-3703</TD><TD width="8%"></TD><TD width="30%">GEAR SET, 5TH</TD><TD width="30%">Hardened gear from Emco 40-39, 0.975 for world challenge</TD><TD align=right width="12%">11/21/2001</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
thanks for the idea, but my tranny's finally back together (as of this morning).

i just need to put it back in now, and i'll be fine :)

[TurfBurn]

except for the fact that they charge aout 1,000 per gear (last time I looked!)... so uh.. that's not a real affordable option for most people!

[JDM Sam]

well there goes that idea

[Equinox]

instead of taking off the control arm and pulling out the ball joint from the spindle, you can just take off the two nuts and bolts that hold the spindle to the strut, and the entire assembly will drop down, allowing you to remove the driverside axle. This will also allow you to pivot the spindle with the steering tie rod, to shimmy out the axle. I chose this method because I do not have access to a pickle fork. =)

[wicked]

instead of taking off the control arm and pulling out the ball joint from the spindle, you can just take off the two nuts and bolts that hold the spindle to the strut, and the entire assembly will drop down, allowing you to remove the driverside axle. This will also allow you to pivot the spindle with the steering tie rod, to shimmy out the axle. I chose this method because I do not have access to a pickle fork. =)
^nice add^

[_Slotegé_]

Sorry to Threadjack but does anyone have a write-up on, how-to replace the clutch? This will be my first time changing one on a FWD car so I'm kinda in the dark about what all i will need to remove.I have ran a search and I didn't come up with anything that will help me out.

I will delete this post so that I won't clutter up your thread.

Thanks:)
-David

[hellcat]

Follow the instructions in this thread about removing the tranny. Once you get it off the flywheel and clutch will be right there, easy to remove and replace. If you can't figure it out with the tranny off, then you should probably get a pro. to do it.

[TurfBurn]

Basically there will be about 4-8 bolts (can't remember) that you use to take off the pressure plate. Once that is off you can just switch the clutch discs... but technically should remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced. Nothing complex about it once you follow my writeup and get the tranny off. Then it's just a few bolts and swapping parts basically.

[_Slotegé_]

So I have to completly remove the tranny to replace the clutch?

FYI I'm a diesel machanic so I should be able to handle it.I don't know to much about FWD car's though thats why I asked.

Thanks alot for all your help!

[TurfBurn]

Yeah tranny needs to be all the way out to do it. But after that it is simple. The tranny removal is the hard part... the rest is a cakewalk.

[roni]

Sorry to Threadjack but does anyone have a write-up on, how-to replace the clutch? This will be my first time changing one on a FWD car so I'm kinda in the dark about what all i will need to remove.I have ran a search and I didn't come up with anything that will help me out.

I will delete this post so that I won't clutter up your thread.

Thanks:)
-DavidPosts #1 through #8 explain how to remove the tranny.

Here's a picture of my tranny out and you can see the clutch assembly (it's yellow) on the driver's side of my engine.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23087

[JDM Sam]

Torque wrench, pry bar, big fucking hammer, extension handle for more leverage on ratchet, engine support, impact, good set of metric sockets deep reach, flex head ratchets, 14 mm box wrench, tranny jack or a helper to help you hoist the tranny back in. Have a fun 6-10 hours if ur doing it the first time.

[roni]

Torque wrench, pry bar, big fucking hammer, extension handle for more leverage on ratchet, engine support, impact, good set of metric sockets deep reach, flex head ratchets, 14 mm box wrench, tranny jack or a helper to help you hoist the tranny back in. Have a fun 6-10 hours if ur doing it the first time.Yeah and go slow, label EVERYTHING. The slower you go taking it out, the faster it goes back in.

[JDM Sam]

woot i had FUN doing my clutch and motor mounts!

[LinuxRacr]

Here are some more pictures:

Old clutch from below:
http://www.msprotege.com/members/LinuxRacr/Tranaxle%20Swap/Dscf0370.jpg

New Spec clutch installed:
http://www.msprotege.com/members/LinuxRacr/Tranaxle%20Swap/Dscf0380.jpg
http://www.msprotege.com/members/LinuxRacr/Tranaxle%20Swap/DSCF0381.JPG

[_Slotegé_]

Torque wrench, pry bar, big fucking hammer, extension handle for more leverage on ratchet, engine support, impact, good set of metric sockets deep reach, flex head ratchets, 14 mm box wrench, tranny jack or a helper to help you hoist the tranny back in. Have a fun 6-10 hours if ur doing it the first time.Yeah it will be oh so fun to learn how to do this on my own car!!!(boom02)

At least I have a buddy from work that has done a few helping me out!
I <3 my co-worker's!(kissass)

I'm hoping that my flywheel is fine and doesn't need to be resurfaced.that will mess up my whole plan to have this done in a weekend top's.

Anyway's, thank you all very much for the help and I will let you all know how it go's when the time come's to do it. I'm looking at about 2-3weeks untell I have the time to do this. maybe a little sooner.

[_Slotegé_]

Well,we got the clutch in about two weeks ago and it wasn't as easy as I was thinking it was going to be but,it wasn't that bad either.TurfBurn I just wanted to thank you again and everyone else for their tip's/how-to.

Awesome write up man I'm sure it will help alot of other people in the future.

Thanks
David:)

[tekkie]

excellent work Steve I never even noticed this one before

how about a how-to on removing the motor :D

[TurfBurn]

excellent work Steve I never even noticed this one before

how about a how-to on removing the motor :D
Probably will be doing one of those :). When I put my motor back in the car in about 8 weeks I'll do a writeup then. I'm missing a lot of the pictures I need for doing that one :). But I will go ahead and do it. Any other's?? I have the motor out so I can do just about any of them that you think would be of use. I'll do one on cams for sure. I won't have one for the head installation though, but that's straight forward. I will have one for all the pulley's and stuff too. And I'll add a clutch one as well.

[tekkie]

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet, I was just kidding :)

Hey man if you can do the engine that will help me out immensly, I have never done an engine swap before so without this I am sure that I am going to be doing it in the wrong steps whilch will lead to way more work than I want. Of course the more important part that scares me is putting it back in :) I dont want to screw that up and realize I have to redo half of it, lol.

I have to install my new clutch and remove my LSD's but you already have pretty much done those here anyway.

Thinking ...... I know how to install the FMIC - and Thumper kit already because I helped Azian6er do his :) and the fuel rail I know because I already had mine out to install my injectors.

So I think thats all I need :) but I am sure other people may have things they want.

Just strip the whole car and rebuild it from scratch, that should cover everything :D lol

[ddogg777]

NOTE: When I did this I also had one of the new revised 1-2 shift forks. It can not be installed using the disassembly method I indicated here as you can not get the linkages lined up properly again due to a larger shoulder on the shift fork. Other disassembly that I did not attempt to figure out is required.
So you didn't put in your new 1-2 fork?

[TurfBurn]

No I didn't... I never figured out how to do it as the way I took apart the gears didn't allow for it to go back together right. I haven't needed it.. I have the fork around... and I may tackle it at some point.. but as of yet I haven't figured out the right sequence of pins and so forth to allow it to go back together with the new fork because of the larger shoulder.

[roni]

No I didn't... I never figured out how to do it as the way I took apart the gears didn't allow for it to go back together right. I haven't needed it.. I have the fork around... and I may tackle it at some point.. but as of yet I haven't figured out the right sequence of pins and so forth to allow it to go back together with the new fork because of the larger shoulder.

I did the 1-2 shift fork upgrade when I had my tranny out last summer. It wasn't hard, I did it without disassembling every gear set. I wish I had a pic to show you. :( I think I'm done opening up my tranny for quite a while.

Ohh, and FYI for you people, my tranny saga within the last month (it was posted in the rep. points thread, I should've posted the pics and info here).

PICS ON THIS POST:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1498147&postcount=7038

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1500911&postcount=7079

PICS ON THIS POST:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1505895&postcount=7224

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1506026&postcount=7230

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1506058&postcount=7237

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1506066&postcount=7239

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1514355&postcount=7447

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1516091&postcount=7491

If anyone ever needs to open up the outside of the tranny while it's on the car, I have now done it a few times, it's pretty simple, almost too simple. The only thing that's accessible out there is 5th gear and some of the parts for reverse I think.

[TurfBurn]

Holy crap girl you did in that 5th gear! That was some serious shit :). Glad you got it taken care of...

I'm not going to worry about my shift fork until I blow out a tranny. I should have a spare soonish (or at least before I start boosting in genuine once I drop the motor back in)... and then if I take one out I'll just swap them in and out... But yeah... quite the pictures! Hope all else is well.

Later,

Steve

[DooMer_MP3]

So, I might make an attempt at this in the spring, for a clutch/flywheel install. Few questions from the writeup (which is awesome, btw). How easy is it to destroy the oil seals? Is there much that can be done to avoid that? How much does the tranny weigh? Is it something that should also be supported with a jack when its time to remove it? When a new clutch/flywheel is installed, how hard is it to do without all of the Mazda SSTs? What is involved with the alignment tool (which I assume is for the bearing) etc? Seems like Spec clutches come with an alignment tool. What do you do with it?

Thanks,
Chris

[viVid]

Can't speak to the seals, but you will want to support the tranny with a jack. It doesn't weigh a ton, but it is cumbersome.

Shouldn't be that hard to install the flywheel if you have access to an impact wrench. If you don't, it gets a little more interesting. I dropped the oil pan on my GTI and put a block of wood in there to keep the crank from turning.

The alignment tool is used to center the clutch disc up with the pressure plate. Makes installing the tranny a whole lot easier.

So, I might make an attempt at this in the spring, for a clutch/flywheel install. Few questions from the writeup (which is awesome, btw). How easy is it to destroy the oil seals? Is there much that can be done to avoid that? How much does the tranny weigh? Is it something that should also be supported with a jack when its time to remove it? When a new clutch/flywheel is installed, how hard is it to do without all of the Mazda SSTs? What is involved with the alignment tool (which I assume is for the bearing) etc? Seems like Spec clutches come with an alignment tool. What do you do with it?

Thanks,
Chris

[TurfBurn]

So, I might make an attempt at this in the spring, for a clutch/flywheel install. Few questions from the writeup (which is awesome, btw). How easy is it to destroy the oil seals? Is there much that can be done to avoid that? How much does the tranny weigh? Is it something that should also be supported with a jack when its time to remove it? When a new clutch/flywheel is installed, how hard is it to do without all of the Mazda SSTs? What is involved with the alignment tool (which I assume is for the bearing) etc? Seems like Spec clutches come with an alignment tool. What do you do with it?

Thanks,
Chris

I thought you sold your MP3? Hmm... well anyway... LOL.

You HAVE to replace the seals, even if you don't mess them up when you are working with the axles they will leak if you don't replace them, I've learned that one the hard way. They cost all of 6 bucks each so no worries there.

Tranny with no fluid in it weighed out at 96 lbs when we weighed it. You do not need the Mazda SST's to do any of it... just some set punches for setting the seals gently etc.

All clutches come with an alignment tool, it basically roughly lines up the friction disc properly so that when it is tightened down/clamped by the pressure plate that everythign is in line with the pilot bearing so that you can get the main shaft to engage properly.

As far as the possibility of pulling the oil pan... that's a LOT of work on our motors.. easiest way is to have a buddy hold the crankwith a wrench from the other side of the car while you do your thing on the flywheel. You can put a socket on the crank bolt and you'll be good.

Chris, if you want to do it some weekend you can bring it out to my place and we can do it.... I've pulled the tranny enough times and have all the tools.

Later,

Steve

[DooMer_MP3]

Steve,
Thats music to my ears (the trip to Madison) I'll buy you food, beer, whatever :D. It all seems like something I could do if I were very patient and meticulous, but it would be fantastic to have someone who's done it before to show me the first time. I never sold the car. Decided buying a nice condo downtown in Milwaukee was more attractive than a VW GLI :). I am doing the clutch/flywheel because of some pretty bad chatter this winter, and it is now a quite real possibility that I'll be purchasing a supercharger kit from ... Don't want to get banned ;).

Chris

[TurfBurn]

We'll talk about that too ;).

[CustomMSP]

The seals are replaced from the outside of the tranny? I just had the tranny out of the car about two months ago...and I don't think the seals were replaced. I don't see any leaks though...but I need to remove the clutch/flywheel to send to Spec for inspection. I can get the seals from the dealer? I'm assulming they are the same for all 5spd proteges?

Thanks.

[TurfBurn]

I have the part numbers posted somewhere.. the axles seals are on the outside.. so yes they are replaced from the outside.. there is one seal in the middle of the tranny but it is a beast to replace. They are the same for all protege's... and they are about 6 bucks each from your dealer or I personally recommend getting them from mazdastuff.com

Later!

Steve

[CustomMSP]

Steve,

Does the gear shaft coming out of the tranny in the bell housing need to be greased along with the t/o bearing? Or there should absolutely be 0 grease around those parts as they go through the clutch disk? If they do need to be greased can you recommend the grease to use?

As far as the tranny fluid...is it safe to just fill the tranny up with new/different fluid without first cleaning the inside of the tranny from any left over fluid with something like parts cleaner?

Thanks!

[ddogg777]

ONly grease moving parts that are exposed to friction (except clutches and brakes, they need the friction). That being said, there are only two parts on the shaft that are under friction: the TO bearing and the oil seal. The throwout bearing should be a sealed bearing because you don't want grease to spread to your clutch (besides, you can't grease it unless you take it apart).

[JDM Sam]

Moly Grease is what you want to use. You should def go look at the FSM. It shows where to grease specifically.

[TurfBurn]

only areas you grease in the bellhousing area are the pivot ball that supports the release fork, and the two contact points on the release fork that push agaisnt the throwout bearing.. nothing else in that area gets greased... the shaft is dry when it is slid into the pilot bearing and through the clutch... As far as the fluid change... your stock fluid will mix in more or less fine with the redline... getting the redline out later will be a bitch but compressed air can get it off usually... but it isn't imperative to switch them from my knowledge.

[kyle0k]

well ithink there might be something wrong with my ball beating as seen on this question....
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108931
what woudl i do to replace that,which steps do i actually need to do,and such.

[wicked]

I just wanted to take this space to thank turf for this thread.
It would have taken me awhile to figure out the roll pin part,and lifting the assembly.
I probaly would have dissesembled most of it. (thumb)



BTW to the guy posted above me.

it's called a through out bearing,and you get a new one when yo buy a clutch kit.

[Minus]

awesome. hey about the passenger side axle, how did you go about removing it? just wondering what you guys did that may have been easier.

[TurfBurn]

We didn't remove it or move it... the tranny came in and out without moving that axle... however, you can remove the 3 bolts that hold the bracket on the backet of the motor in place that holds the axle and then you can also release the control arm and it is easy then to pull the axle out.

[Minus]

yeah i pulled the three bolts out and just gave it a slight tug

[Minus]

Hey, could you show something about the wiring on the backside, i was going to hook the the wiring on the backside of the transmission and it appear as though I have an extra connector. I was somewhat puzzled but didn't think much of it and just added in my transmission fluid and went home now I'm going back to the shop tonight to finish up and I still have no clue where the hell it goes. If anyone has a clue what I'm talking about it would be helpful. I have a very small picture taken with my phone which i apparently had turned to the lowest resolution possible.
http://rekt.net/whips/Picture008.jpg

wow that picture sucks. i can't really remember what color the wires were. Hopefully someone knows right off the bat. or maybe now that i'm well rested i won't hunt for 20 minutes like i did last night. of course it was 1 in the morning when i was looking. haha

[TurfBurn]

Hey, could you show something about the wiring on the backside, i was going to hook the the wiring on the backside of the transmission and it appear as though I have an extra connector. I was somewhat puzzled but didn't think much of it and just added in my transmission fluid and went home now I'm going back to the shop tonight to finish up and I still have no clue where the hell it goes. If anyone has a clue what I'm talking about it would be helpful. I have a very small picture taken with my phone which i apparently had turned to the lowest resolution possible.
http://rekt.net/whips/Picture008.jpg

wow that picture sucks. i can't really remember what color the wires were. Hopefully someone knows right off the bat. or maybe now that i'm well rested i won't hunt for 20 minutes like i did last night. of course it was 1 in the morning when i was looking. haha

I'm pretty sure that connects to a connector on the end of a pair of green wires that goes to a plug that is either in the front bottom of the trans, or the back bottom of the trans... so look for a pigtail with a connector on it somewhere toward the front of the car I believe that is about 8" long...

Otherwise the only other one I can think of that has gotten me before is the speedo hookup which is on the back by the starter... and is a black connector that is vertical and hard as hell to see behind the engine mount.

Later!

Steve

[wicked]

I think that one realy is an extra.

not certain,but if my memory serves me right,then it is extra

[TurfBurn]

otherwise check for your water temp sensor to be connected, your intake air temp sensor... those are similar as well.

[roni]

The only other ones I can think of are your speedo sensor and your reverse lights. I would check to make sure you have both.

[roni]

The only other ones I can think of are your speedo sensor and your reverse lights. I would check to make sure you have both.

Although, it is possible to hook one of the connectors to the other connector instead of directly to the tranny.

[Minus]

oh well i went right in last night and about 3 minutes of looking i located it. but i can't for the most remember where it was, i believe it was the speedometer. anyways i went in last night bleed my clutch and hooked that up, put battery tray and air box and all back in and took her for a test drive. first time shes chirped 2nd in way over a year. even spun slightly in third. I say slightly because you could barely hear it but never the less it was much better than my stock disc. I will upload some pictures of my comparisons.

[Minus]

http://www.rekt.net/whips/clutch

[INGREXCO]

i would just like to give my apreciation to this thread.

[DiscreetSpeed]

i was able to slide the differential out without taking out the roll pin. just letting you all know. easy to do and great write up man.

[wicked]

i was able to slide the differential out without taking out the roll pin. just letting you all know. easy to do and great write up man.

yeah,you can,but is easier with it removed.

BTW,another set of hands os wonderful on this project.

[Brian MP5T]

F-ing great how to!

[DiscreetSpeed]

yeah,you can,but is easier with it removed.

BTW,another set of hands os wonderful on this project.

actually i couldnt get the forks in a position where i can get the pin out.
so i did this and sliding it out was hella easy so i disagree.(poke)

[jc2904]

having problems getting the half shaft out of the tranny, any suggestions? I am only doing the rear mount and clutch. would it be possible to just leave it attached when the trans on the ground? :confused: :confused: :confused:

[wicked]

yup,you can leave it.

[khaosman]

This scares the shit out of me. But I want to do it.

[INGREXCO]

no you dont...

[khaosman]

no you dont...

haha, funny you bump this thread now

I'm getting very close to doing this, I have all my parts now! ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, and the MSP LSD. I even got some motor mount inserts so I can take out the AWR rear mm.

I looked over the thread a few times again and it looks doable... but still scarey :D

[wicked]

haha, funny you bump this thread now

I'm getting very close to doing this, I have all my parts now! ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, and the MSP LSD. I even got some motor mount inserts so I can take out the AWR rear mm.

I looked over the thread a few times again and it looks doable... but still scarey :D



your going to weld the MSP diff before putting it in,right?

[ssmithfam]

The post on removing and installing a tranny was a real good read. I'm in the midst of replacing the DOHC 1.8 and 5spd tranny from a 91 Protege due to my SIL no knowing the value of engine and transmission oil... My son now has the car, and we're underway, an engine is coming, but finding a tranny to fit his budget ($400-500 or so) has not been successful.

Does anyone know if the F series manual tranny's will bolt up and swap in with minimum modification? I realize we will need to change CV axles, etc. (need to anyway, as the boots are torn).

Thanks,

Smitty

[khaosman]

your going to weld the MSP diff before putting it in,right?

Hmm good point, I probably might as well. What parts do people weld to make it stronger?

[Kansei]

So the tranny drain bolt is 22mm and the fill bolt is 23mm? Why are these the largest bolts used on the car?! the closest is the crank pulley (21mm) and lugnuts (also 21mm).

Damn you craftsman set, you fail me! I gotta go pick up a 22 and 23mm now.

And no, I'm not taking out my tranny, just doing the tranny fluid again (put redline in at around 30k miles, at 63500 now).

Edit: stupid Sears doesn't carry 23mm sockets so I had to just get a combo 21/23mm wrench. 14.99 vs. like 5 dollars per socket argh. I hope I don't need a ton of torque on that 23mm, but IIRC last time I did it with a medium-sized adjustable wrench so I should be ok.

[l2eedy]

Just took out the tranny and took apart...about to get a new lsd and put in, but one question what kind of weld are you guys using to welt these, the lsd looks like cast and the gear looks steel...also factory how the hell are gear and lsd held together?

[wicked]

do a search,there are pictures popsted on the forum of what is supposed to be welded......................


it's TIG by the way,a stick is sloppy,and MIG just won't work.

[benben84]

awesome info!! I will be needing to remove my tranny here soon and this will help a ton! Also Turfburn since you live close to me I may need to ask of your assistance when it comes time to put the gtx gears and new lsd in. If you don't mind.

[tekkie]

Steve thanks for putting this together, I took my tranny apart today to put in my gtx gears and my quaife lsd, its nowhere near as difficult as i thought it would be :)

[khaosman]

Steve thanks for putting this together, I took my tranny apart today to put in my gtx gears and my quaife lsd, its nowhere near as difficult as i thought it would be :)

OOooo Quaife LSD, you gotta share with us how nice it is :D

[tekkie]

Steve thanks for doing this man, it came in handy for sure, I swapped my gtx gears tody and put the tranny back together :)

[kz9]

Well I followed this and still can't get the roll pin out between the forks? It just wont. I can't pull the top fork up enough because the bottom of the fork shaft hits the bottom fork.

I have no clue? stumped.....

[kz9]

Well I followed this and still can't get the roll pin out between the forks? It just wont. I can't pull the top fork up enough because the bottom of the fork shaft hits the bottom fork.

I have no clue? stumped.....


I got it! I had to twist to 1st gear, then it dropped. Thanx...

[TurfBurn]

good deal!

[yashooa]

Ok, I could not get the damn 1-2, 3-4, linkage roll pin back
in with the provided instructions as the revised shift fork, at least in my tranny, would not allow the rollpin back in because the linkage will not line up.
So what to do?
You have to take another rollpin out lower down
http://www.msprotege.com/members/yashooa/trans%20065.jpg
and then move the rod up and align the roll pin with the collar "things" that moves through the shift fork "things." Once you have the upper rollpin in you push the rod back down and line up the bottom hole and then you smack the bottom rollpin back in.
Here is another shot of the lower rollpin.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/yashooa/trans%20066.jpg
This makes life so much easier :)

[nocar]

i dont have most of the tools to do this or a garage right now plus after researching I still dont totally understand most of this on rebuilding my transmission since i never did it before. I believe my shift fork broke.. Im having my car picked up monday to get worked on at a transmission shop. They are charging me like $500 in labor plus parts. Any idea on how much the shift forks cost or any related parts to that? Just so I kno they are like over charging me for the parts.. Im kinda low on cash so It would help to know that im not getting ripped on the parts.

[TurfBurn]

Shift forks are about 60-80 dollars each. There are only 3 in the transmission, only two of which have ever been known to break at all.

[CrazyCaker]

I started working on my tranny last night, and ran into a few problems. First, I couldn't get the ball joint clamp bolt out since the bolt seems to be seized. I ended up disconnecting the tie-rod instead, and the strut from the hub. The shaft came out considerably easy from the tranny. My next problem was the shift linkage bolt! That bitch was so seized I had to end up using a punch on my air hammer to get the fucker out!!

I'm just about to start working on it again this morning, I'm hoping the rest goes a bit smoother.

[Prodigy]

One quick question - Does anybody know where the second stainless steel ball goes?
I know one goes in one of the holes with the yellow spring.

But there's an identical one that I found the the remaining transmission fluid after I removed the gears that I have no idea where it goes.

[Prodigy]

bump

[Dugg E Fresh]

I'll be tackling this project when my LSD gets here. Going to try and find somebody to weld it good. Something I don't think I saw a definitive answer to is the seals:

Can I get them at a parts store or any Mazda dealer for the Protege, or are they specific to the MSP/MP3?? Same question for the throw out bearing? I'd rather not have to find a way to get to Omaha an hour & half away to the closest MazdaSpeed dealer if I can help it. Any information would help me out a bunch.

Thanks for the thread Steve, never even messed w/ a FWD tranny before so this one is gonna pop the cherry. (ughdance)

[TurfBurn]

A lot of the autozones and so forth will carry the trans axle seals and the bearings you need...

could have bought the diff from us pre-welded! :)

Later,

Steve

[Dugg E Fresh]

A lot of the autozones and so forth will carry the trans axle seals and the bearings you need...

could have bought the diff from us pre-welded! :)

Later,

SteveI cant find it on your website. :(
I did just find the welding "service" you offer. U have a link for the diff+welding? Price is definitely a factor since I had to effin borrow money to get the damn thing.

Thanks again.

[Matthew1785]

Whew. . .saves me from doing a write up. Nice work bro! Obviously you've got more time on your hands than me these days. :D

I've got your next write up! How to turn your NA protege into a MSP - FI motor!

looks like you'll have to use the write up when you do my car, i'll make sure im the person that writes everything down, due to the fact im mechanically stupid LOL

[Prodigy]

looks like you'll have to use the write up when you do my car, i'll make sure im the person that writes everything down, due to the fact im mechanically stupid LOL
Simply take your time to write a number on each bolt and take a picture of it's location...
That's what I did for every single bolt from the wheel nuts down to the bolts on the LSD.

[Dugg E Fresh]

Well, all is good now. Took three nights of "after-work" work, but she's back in and on the road now. The biggest problem I ran into was the top bolt on the rear motor mount. That fucker was a bitch to get turned all the way in.

[biknman]

Awesome How to subscribed

[Omar MSP]

now, my lsd blew today while i was going to work. yea, add me to the list.

i'm limited on supplies, do i really really need that impact gun? or can i get it off with a breaker bar?

[Prodigy]

now, my lsd blew today while i was going to work. yea, add me to the list.

i'm limited on supplies, do i really really need that impact gun? or can i get it off with a breaker bar?
You'll have a hard time with the axel nuts and locking nuts on the trans.
You'll have to find a way to keep the gears from spinning without damaging them.

[Omar MSP]

damn. i guess i gotta take her to a shop then. i'm not going to buy a compressor and a gun just for 1 job. i will buy one on the long run, but right now i just need this car running again.

[Dugg E Fresh]

damn. i guess i gotta take her to a shop then. i'm not going to buy a compressor and a gun just for 1 job. i will buy one on the long run, but right now i just need this car running again. Ugh, that sux. What kinda price are you looking at to do the job? I can't even imagine. It ran me over $600 when all was said-and-done for parts/welding alone. There was no way I was about to drop another 250-500 bux on labor.

[Omar MSP]

Ugh, that sux. What kinda price are you looking at to do the job? I can't even imagine. It ran me over $600 when all was said-and-done for parts/welding alone. There was no way I was about to drop another 250-500 bux on labor.
i don't know about the labor yet. i will find out soon.

but parts are almost $500 bucks and the labor is estimated $600 because i want them to install my clutch while they are at it.

[CustomMSP]

i don't know about the labor yet. i will find out soon.

but parts are almost $500 bucks and the labor is estimated $600 because i want them to install my clutch while they are at it.

Just take the actual tranny to the shop after you remove it to get those lock nuts off the gear shafts. And then take it back to get the locking nuts on after you replace the lsd. Make sure to get new gear shaft locking nuts!!! If you reuse the old ones they'll end up loosening up after a little while.

[Omar MSP]

Well, I called the trans place and they gave me an estimate. $450 in labor. he was saying it might be something else, but I told him it was the lsd. He didn't care, he wants to check it himself. The clutch I didn't get a chance to talk about it, but I'm sure it'll be almost the same.

I'm ordering my parts from SU. I gotta wait for them to arrive. And they also offered me free towing and $100 bucks off any major tranny repair.

The parts are like $762 plus around $900 estimated labor. A little less then $2000 just to get my lsd and clutch installed.

[TurfBurn]

damn. i guess i gotta take her to a shop then. i'm not going to buy a compressor and a gun just for 1 job. i will buy one on the long run, but right now i just need this car running again.

an electric impact gun (what I actually use most of the time) can be had from www.harborfreight.com (http://www.harborfreight.com) for only about 45 dollars plus shipping... great for lots of tasks too!

[TurfBurn]

If you need anything on parts let me know. we pull in LSD's pretty regularily and quickly.. and can get you any other OEM part you need whenever as well.

Later,

Steve

[Dugg E Fresh]

Hey Omar, what clutch did you decide to go with? I really wish I would've had the funds while my tranny was out, I proly would've gotten the Exedy stage II. Coulda gotten a hell of a deal on it at the time, but brokeness is a beeyatch.

[Omar MSP]

my father lended me over $1800 bucks.

ordered the excedy stage 1 clutch. torque capacity is 320. 37% increase in torque. thats all i'll need.

Quick question. do i only need 3 bottles of lube? because i read that it recommends 3.5 bottles. i don't know to order 4 or not. i could save that extra $12 bucks if i don't need it.

edit: one more thing. can you guys give me an estimate on a clutch job? the tranny is coming out so i don't know how much labor he's going to charge me. i didn't get a chance to ask. i was thinking, since the tranny is already out for one job, he shouldn't charge that much labor since its already out for a different job.

[Dugg E Fresh]

I would think the same thing as far as labor goes, but some of those guys will rape you and charge for two jobs. The clutch, while everything is out anyway, should only be another 30-45 minute job.
I used exactly 3 qts and it was right at the bottom of the fill hole.

Edit: That stage I should be killer! Anybody else have this or stage II clutch and use it as a daily?

[Omar MSP]

just 3 huh. ok i did have 4 in my cart. so ima get rid of one.

$450 for the labor. sheesh. i hope its not that bad for the clutch. hell, i will go down there and do it myself i was allowed. "sarcasm" but for insurance reasons, you not allowed.

i don't want to go over $1000 in labor alone. im going to tell them that. if its more than $1000, cut me a break.

[smo0f]

depends on the mechanic. stuff like clutch/flywheel, and motor mounts, nick didn't charge me for, since the tranny and motor were out already

[Omar MSP]

depends on the mechanic. stuff like clutch/flywheel, and motor mounts, nick didn't charge me for, since the tranny and motor were out already
wow. thats a deal.

i will let him know. i'm not stupid, i'm actually a technician myself. i would do it myself but i don't have the right tools for the job. can't afford them.

it would make sense not to charge me labor for tranny removal when its already out. he should only charge me for clutch installation. which i would hope to believe half or a quarter of the labor charge.

also. he's telling me that it could be many many things wrong. not the lsd. i told him that my kind of car is notorious for this and from the people i've heard and spoken to "u guys" it is the lsd because my gears grab, just there is no power to my wheels, hence it being the lsd. i've seen many threads of lsd being blown. i have the same symptoms.

but he needs to check himself. o well. i know he's going to tell me its the lsd.

edit: 1000 post! woot!!!

[Dugg E Fresh]

Same thing with mine. I told everybody it was the LSD and they asked, "how do you know?" I said, I just do, from this forum. :)
Congrats on your 1000 posts (whore) ;) j/k
Just make sure he understands that you know what the hell ur talking about and there is no reason to charge a bunch more just to do the clutch while everything is out anyway.

[Omar MSP]

Ha guess what? Before the car was being taken apart, he was saying all this stuff about it may not be the differential and what not. All of a sudden I call him today and he goes... uh, so when are you expecting that lsd in? PWNED!

He said he's not going to double charge me on labor for the clutch. So I'm happy about that. Just for the install.

[boostdprotegelx]

subbin cuz i can't get my damn speedo working in my car...

steve, please check this thread for help...http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123662161

[shane02pro5]

Did my tranny this weekend with new welded LSD and a few other parts along with my clutch.


I'm popping out of 5th gear!!!
The only part of the re-assembly that I left to my buddy and did not verify with a drawing(argh) (argh) (argh)

But now looking through drawings I see the Collar part that the 5th/reverse shift fork moves is flipped with the chamfered edge facing opposite each other. These are the two drawings that show different orientation.

Anyone with helpful information will be greatly appreciated!!!

[shane02pro5]

Bump for Help!!

[boostdprotegelx]

Bump for Help!!
popped out of 5th huh? i would check the locking nut on the end of the gears. that's what my problem was.

[Prodigy]

The pic on the left is a 2003.5 msp trans.
The pic on the right is a pre-2003 trans.

Mazda updated the top-side of the transmission with a different set-up.

[Prodigy]

2002 lx trans

http://photos-554.ak.facebook.com/ip002/v51/223/115/1114080054/n1114080054_30105554_8851.jpg


2003.5 msp trans
http://photos-490.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v77/223/115/1114080054/n1114080054_30186490_4800.jpg

[shane02pro5]

Thanks for the pic. I'm about to pop off the cover and take a look.

[shane02pro5]

Do you have a pic of how the synchro and split ring pieces fit into the selector on the new tranny?

[shane02pro5]

The gear selector ring was in backwards. In the pic above showing the parts in order the selector ring is backwards also! Runs like a champ now!
Knock on wood!!!

[Metallic36]

Is it possible to strip the part on the tranny that slides into the middle of where the clutch is? I'm thinking this is the driveshaft.. I've tried to line it up, but cannot tell if it is in or not.. and I don't want to tighten it if it has to lock in the grooves of each one. It has been close enough to where it is about a 1/2" around and I could have put the bolts in to hold it, then move it some more to make sure it was in there..

To put the tranny in the car you will have to very carefully work to get it up and over the driveshaft and the passenger side half shaft without damaing the oil seal on the differential casing. I used a rag to help out on that a little bit. After a lot of fiddling around and grunting you'll probably get it in place. It will not seat all the way up to the engine though more likely that not. Both times that I worked on this I could not get the half shaft to seat easily and had trouble with the driveshaft as well making it quite difficult. What i did was get it as close as possible and then used the 19mm bolt on the back side by the rear engine mount and the 19mm bolt on the front side by the front engine mount. I threaded them both in a little bit and progressively tightened them down until the tranny seated. Do this carefully so that you do not pinch, bend, or break anything.

After you get the tranny seated, just put all your bolts back in and parts back on in the reverse order.

Fill the tranny up through the front fill location which is a 23mm bolt as well. Make sure you do it with the car on the ground and level. Fill it up until a little drips out the hole and you should be all set. It took about 3 quarts even for me.

Good luck with your install!

Steve

[TurfBurn]

by the time you get it to within a half inch of seated you are probably already in the splines. I have not had any problems ever with them stripping or getting damaged. usually that last half inch is fighting the pilot bearing if you are misalinged and the alignment sleeves on the block. If you get it so you can get the big 19mm bolts in you can carefully work it to try to seat it and then little by little seat it down with those bolts keeping the gap even all the way around. That has usually worked well for me in the past on the ones I have done.

If something feels like it is binding up and is not a consistent pressure or you feel seems excessive, then back it off and try to reseat things.

Hope that helps.

later,

Steve

[shane02pro5]

Any updates Metallic? 1/2" is right there!

[Metallic36]

LOL I got it on fine.. I got the larger bolts in, then worked it around and the tranny felt like it just slid right on.

Any updates Metallic? 1/2" is right there!

[Prodigy]

I had the same problem my first time around...
I really didn't want to damage the splines.

[ItsSlow]

I wish I would have seen this thread a year ago.. Oh well, I figured it out on my own, lol..

[red99pro]

that clamping bolt must run through the grove on the balljoint i bet.

[TurfBurn]

I can't remember if it does or not, I don't think that it does though from what I remember. The ball joint REALLY sticks in there. I had to use pickle forks to get it out and you pretty well wreck the dust boot every time, so I would replace the dust boot each time I needed to do that. I stopped taking that joint out when I did cars though and instead would release the inner points and let the control arm hang from the strut assembly.

[lowpro35]

after reading through this whole post im thinking i should give my clutch and flywheel a try myself istead of taking it to a shop and spending rediculous amounts of money, then with what i save i get a front mount!!!

[lowpro35]

so far i've done everything to this car so i should stick to the plan.

[Prodigy]

so far i've done everything to this car so i should stick to the plan.
It's pretty straightforward, just take your time.

[lowpro35]

it seems it, just gotta save up for the parts

[shane02pro5]

It's not a bad job at all...several jacks and stands an air ratchet and breaker bar. New axle seals new pilot bearing and the clutch will come with a new throwout bearing and alignmnet tool!

Let us know when it comes time there a few tips to be aware of!

[Prodigy]

+ resurface the flywheel
+ locktite the clutch bolts
+ torque evenly

[dominoy2k1]

damnit getting everything aligned is a pain in the ass. i am taking a break from it before i set the car on fire.

[Prodigy]

trans going back in?
If so, bearhug it and lift the trans so that the main shaft is about 1/2" away from the engine. Then start threading the top trans bolts to bring it closer.

[shane02pro5]

Maybe a little late but be sure your pass side axle seal and alum oil seal cap thingy are seated properly.

[dominoy2k1]

yeah i got it, after finessing it. filling tranny fluid now. 3qts is what it takes right?

[dominoy2k1]

got me too. gotta raise the car and check it cause i gots no speedo. although shifts so smooth. exedy clutch and royalpurple really nice. feels better than new.



Otherwise the only other one I can think of that has gotten me before is the speedo hookup which is on the back by the starter... and is a black connector that is vertical and hard as hell to see behind the engine mount.

Later!

Steve

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

Anyone have the torque specs for putting this shit back on or should I jsut get a service manual :p

[Prodigy]

internal or external?
http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

internal or external?
http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/

OMG this is like my new bible! Thanks :D

[IslandSpeed]

I have a 2003 Mazada Speed Protege.


When I put the transfer case back together & put the 5th./reverse shifter fork back on, is the 5th./reverse shift rod with gears, does the 5th. gear stay up with the fork? Before I put on the rear cover?

Should the 5th. gear move when I move the linkage?

[shane02pro5]

You should be able to switch back and forth between 5th and reverse makes no difference the linkage moves with it. You should slide a screwdriver into the shift linkage and make sure you go into all the gears.

[TurfBurn]

just pulling the selector in and out won't test 5th.. you have to do like shane said and basically you put a screw driver through the selector move it ot the neutral position and then have to twist it to one side to exercsie 5th and reverse and I too recommend you do that through all 6 gears (5 plus reverse) to make sure things are fine. You will see the 5th fork move when you get it right if you have the black cap off.

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

Heres a question, is there any way to get the 2 bolts in the reverse gear section out without an impact?

[TurfBurn]

Technically yes... you are supposed to be able to do it by holding the input shaft fixed. But that requires a special tool. It's dangerous to do wth the engine etc I guess.

[shane02pro5]

That would suck bad! Might be able to rent a little compressor and an impact gun??

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

My buddy has one, but it's hard to work around other peoples scheduals, thats why i was wondering. Good enough though I'll just impact them.

I'm sure mazda wants a million dollars for that special tool lol.

[speedracer]

I would just go to Harbor Feight and buy a electric impact.
$40 there abouts

[TurfBurn]

Yep, I have one of the harbor freight electric impacts. Have used it now for going on 6 years without any issues. Works better than my air impact too!

[speedracer]

I just wanted to give another thank you to
TurfBurn for this thread!!!
I couldn't have done this without some direction.
here's my endeavor.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/tploeg0529/trans%20rebuild/100_1109.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/tploeg0529/trans%20rebuild/100_1108.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/tploeg0529/trans%20rebuild/100_1111.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/tploeg0529/trans%20rebuild/100_1119.jpg

[shane02pro5]

Amen to that^!

Get's easier everytime...I have one last time to go in next year.

[killermatt]

is it pretty close to the same for an 03 lx protege?

[msp 2212]

so thats wat im gettin into huh thanks for the directions and ill post how it goes thanks turfburn for the help

[Prodigy]

is it pretty close to the same for an 03 lx protege?
exact same.

[20mazdaspeed03]

seems like you guys know alot about trannys so i gotta question about mine, well its what happened maybe you could help alittle. I did a hole shot and at about 6000rpms it felt like my car went into neutral. There was no noise or smell of anything burnt. So i shifted into second but had nothing. I can shift into all the gears fine and i still have good clutch pedal pressure. When i put it into any gear to take off it does nothing but make a klunking noise every once and a while. But when i put the car on a lift the tires will spin. No idea whats going on PLease help thanks

By the way awesome write up if i gotta pull the tranny i know where to look for directions and pics thanks

[TurfBurn]

LSD is sheared most likely it sounds like.

Later!

Steve

[20mazdaspeed03]

how hard is it to swap out the lsd

[TurfBurn]

once the trans is out of the car and you use this how to it's rather easy

[shane02pro5]

Make sure to get the new one welded for reinforcement. Search for "welded lsd" it's a common weak link even at stock power levels.

[TurfBurn]

Yep that's a must, and regardless of what certain vendors like to say I was the second person on the boards to do it, and the first to commercialize it. I'd have to dig to find the person that did it first again, but i know there have been some people taking credit for it that didn't do it... along with the trick Little Beavis came up with for accessing the upper oil pan/girdle bolts through the transmission bell housing etc... Sorry for the rant, but I think it's a little sad/pathetic when people have to stake reputations or claims on things they didn't come up with.

[20mazdaspeed03]

sweet so i got the tranny out of my car but getting to the lsd seems like its not for me. im gonna pay someone for that lol. but you were saying to get a welded on. i saw one the street unit website and they have a updated and tig welded one. would that be what im looking for??? any suggestions on which one to get?

[TurfBurn]

I'd check with protege garage first, I have worked with Ken and know him well, but I know many people like Cullen and Street Unit. But yes the updated (which is just second revision LSD, which changes the structure, but isn't actually any better for reliability, and some say is worse for peformance) and TIG welded (the only real way this welding can be done) is the right thing. The welding is the most important.

[Prodigy]

After putting the differential in and then realigning the shift linkages and putting the roll pin back in shift both the 1-2 and the 3-4 to the middle or neutral of their gear sets. Then you can then work on the gasket. Clean off all the extra oil or so forth on the sealing face, and then with a rag dipped in the extra oil rub off any remaining gasket. Get it pretty clean. Then wipe it down with a clean rag. Apply an even unbroken small bead all the way around the transmission. After doing that set the upper encloser back over the gear set and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Then tighten down a few bolts to hold it in place.

Put the two small bolts you removed from the side back in (they will have to line up properly with the shift linkage and the receiver on the reverse idler gear shaft properly. Make sure you have things lined up before you put the top cover back on and bolt it down.). With those bolts back in place replace the reverse gearing on the top. Put the fork on and hand tighten new lock nuts on the gearing. The reason for doing all this and not re-assembling the tranny completely is to test the shifting.

To test shifting you can put a screw driver through the actuator rod. if you push the rod toward the tranny you will select one gear, then pulling it back out you will hit neutral then further out the next gear. Pushing it back to the middle you can twist the actuator with the screwdriver toward yourself and then push the actuator toward or away from the tranny to check those two gears. Back in the middle now twist the actuator away from yourself and check the two gears there.

Assuming all the gearing worked fine you can then put in all the 14mm edge bolts and tighten them down. Then put in the ball and spring.

Next use an impact wrench to tighten down the locking nuts in bursts on the reverse gearing. Then knock in the flanges to lock the nuts in place. Create a new gasket around the edge and put the black end cap on and tighten it down. Pull out the oil seals from the differential casing and replace them. You can tap them into place with a blunt object by gently going around the edge of them.

You should then have all the parts back on the tranny and be ready to put it in the car.

Thought this might help as a continuation to prevent problems/questions (2thumbs)
Prodigy's how-to rebuild a g15m-r transmission (http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123733499)

[mightyray]

Thought this might help for those looking for the lsd bearings:

LSD bearings G5R0-27-350B

I'm having trouble finding the part number for the axle seal(s) that should be replaced. Can someone help?

Is this it? F00327238B

[TurfBurn]

the oil seal in the first post is the axle seal. F003.... looks right.

[mightyray]

Ha! Thanks for pointing that out.

[mightyray]

Also, is it absolutely imperative to replace both LSD bearings. I just looked up the cost and it's over $60 for 2 of them.

[TurfBurn]

I have swapped diff's multiple times without replacing bearings. If you PULL them you HAVE to replace them, but if you are just moving the differential assembly with the bearings on it you are fine. You should technically check the lash, but many people get away without doing as such.

[ItsSlow]

I never replaced any of the bearings unless they were damaged.. and I had mine apart a few times..

[Prodigy]

The main thing is to check for scoring.

[mightyray]

Alright fellas, I need your help. I'm in the middle of this and when we cracked the case open we found a broken piece on the magnet and realized later that the part below the diff was broken. I've circled it in this picture. It's the piece held in tension with the spring. Can you guys tell me what it is and where I can find it?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/mightywrestler/DSC00453.jpg

[Prodigy]

it's the reverse gear lockout

http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq314/prodigyprotege/transmission%20how-to/DSC00046.jpg

[mightyray]

Oh thanks! Can I take it out, or do I need it?

[TurfBurn]

you need it... and you can't buy just that part...

[mightyray]

Damn. Turfburn, I just emailed you through your site. Can you give me a call? The welder needs to know what alloy the lsd is so he can tig weld it. Also does anyone have a part number for the lockout assembly? When I cracked the tranny open, the piece that I circled was broken in half but everything was working just fine?

[mightyray]

Well I ordered the part from my dealer at $40 and it can't get here until thursday so I'm without a car until then. I did some more research and I found that people on the forums used 1/16" nickel rod to weld the lsd.

[Prodigy]

cool. could you post the part number when you get it?

[mightyray]

It's called the guide plate and the number is F520-17-480K. That search program that the mazda dealer has is unreal. Why can't that stuff be open to the public!?

[steven giampino]

Some tools you will need for the project:

Drain Pan
4 Jack Stands
Jack
Impact Wrench
Torque Wrench
Creeper (optional)
14mm - sockets and wrenches
12mm - sockets and wrenches
19mm - sockets and wrenches
1-1/4" socket (or 32mm is the same size)
17mm - sockets and wrenches
10mm - sockets and wrenches
Instant Gasket
Pickle Fork Set
Liquid Wrench (WD40 or the like)
Grease
3 quarts of manual tranny fluid of your choice. (I personally like Redline Shockproof Lightweight)
Tranny Jack or a buddy to help you (Tranny weighs 95 lbs and fits in tight)

The install time will range between 8 hours and 24 hours of labor depending on how smoothly things go.

Parts I recommend you replace when doing this: LSD bearings, tranny seals, throw out bearing

I VERY highly recommend that you label each bolt and part when you take it out. So have a permanent marker and some masking tape handy.

some necessary part numbers courtesy of Prodigy:
G15M-R Part #'s ('01-'03 Mazda Protege manual transmission)
Oil seal
F003-27-238B
Transmission locking nuts
F520-17-628
F521-17-628a

when you did your diff did you have to dismantle any gears or have any problems with that...i hope i dont have to mess with any of that thats a risky take...and juss curious after reading the whole write up i diddnt notice you mentioning the torque wrench in any part...which parts should i be useing the torque wrench for ?????

[thepope540]

sub

[Prodigy]

When swapping a differential, you do not have to remove any gears (unless you need the ring gear for a Quaife LSD).
You need the torque wrench for every nut & bolt that is removed. (ie. outer case bolts, locking nuts, etc)

See my sig for a better understanding of the gears vs. the diff..

[joesalinger]

Thanks so much man! I think/hope I'll be able to do this on my own. Doesn't seem too hard...? Wish me luck

[A louie]

Do you need to drop the whole transmission when you do the clutch? or can you just drop half?

And where exactly are the 2 12mm bolts for the clutch actuator? Cant find them or I am just blind

[Prodigy]

You'll need to drop the whole thing. For the clutch actuator, the bolts go through the middle of it.

for example...
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/dhb-cs103489_w.jpg

[A louie]

Thanks. The driver side axel/shaft will not come out, like its not even loose.

Any hints? I took off ball joint and the 2 strut bolts to try to free it and it wont budge

[boostdprotegelx]

pry bar and a mallet.

[Prodigy]

yep, a pry bar identical to this one will take it out with no effort.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43651

[A louie]

I got it out, thanks!

[lowpro35]

so is loctite "required" for the clutch and flywheel bolts? or is it more of a precaution thing?

[boostdprotegelx]

you should loctite all of those bolts.

[lowpro35]

is it necessary to replace the pilot bearing?

[lowpro35]

you should loctite all of those bolts.

we are talking about loctite blue im assuming, Correct?

[boostdprotegelx]

is it necessary to replace the pilot bearing?
bearing on the clutch/pressure plate?? yes. it comes w/ a clutch kit.
we are talking about loctite blue im assuming, Correct?

yep.

[A louie]

I cant get the axle back in. Its almost in where I can kinda put one of the top bolts in, but the bottom near the axle wont go in far enough to wear i can get the bolt down there to go in. It like stops at a certain point.

Anytips on getting the tranny to go farther on the axle?

[Prodigy]

You can either, push harder.
or

Remove the axle, compress the retaining ring that goes inside the trans so that it sits more flush, then slide the axle back in.
You'll feel it click when the axle is back in place.

[A louie]

Do I need to turn the axle so to get it aligned?

[boostdprotegelx]

Do I need to turn the axle so to get it aligned?

yes.

[lowpro35]

If installing a new fidanza flywheel on the msp, is there any sort of counter weight that needs to be bolted on the flywheel? I'm hoping not.

[Prodigy]

nope.

[lowpro35]

nope.

Good because I already put it back together hahhaha

[A louie]

So the whole instrument cluster doesn't work, and I cant find where the sensor in the front of tranny (i think neutral saftey) Plugs into haha. Any ideas?

[A louie]

Anyone?

[boostdprotegelx]

Anyone?

basically if i can't find a sensor plug, i just grab the plug, and try and stretch it in any direction to see where the other end might be.

but one sensor is on the top of the trans, one is on the back. both are pretty visable with the airbox/tubes out.

as far as your cluster. i'm not sure why that doesn't work unless you popped a fuse for it. idk why you would take the cluster out..if you took it out, chances are the plugs aren't in tight.


and if you're talking about your speedometer not working, well, you got the wrong trans.

[A louie]

I did strech and looked everywhere. Couldnt find it. And yes my whole cluster doesnt work, ill check the fuse though for it. and all my plugs are tight, I re checked them.

Just that 1 sensor thats on the front (radiator side) of the transmission, cant find where that plugs into

[A louie]

Update, I got one of the plugs backwards fixed it, now everything works but the speedometer, there is a plug on the one under the throttle body but is there another plug down there to that I cant see?

[Prodigy]

the speedo sensor will be the one on the rear top side (close to the rear motor mount)

Should be where I circled in red...

http://i26.tinypic.com/15xrdqf.jpg

[A louie]

The wire I am missing is the one that is connected to the ground, like on same bundle. I cant find where that one is plugged into though, everything is plugged in except that.

[justint5387]

Do you guys have to set the backlash for the ring gear?

[TurboGoKart]

Thanks a TON for this writeup! I just used it to change a clutch. I've done a ton of clutch/trans swaps on Hondas, but this was my first Mazda. Not all that bad.


I enjoy working on other cars to get an idea of engine/engine components basic designs that diff. manufacturers use. For example, on this Mazda (03 MSP) there is a bolt with nut that connects the shift linkage to the trans. On our Honda's there is a "bitch" pin. It's an expanding roll pin. An absolute pain to get out.