How To: DIY filled motor mounts

[Yay-Boost]

The photos of the mount are from my Mazdaspeed Protege but I'm sure this will work for any mount that has the same type of construction. The stock mounts are made from very soft rubber and have large air holes to help isolate the engine vibrations from the passengers in the car. Filling in these air holes will reduce the amount the engine will rock but may increase vibrations in the car. I used epoxy on a past car and this really made a difference in the way the car drove. Everything inside the car vibrated but it was a Dodge Neon so that isn't really all that uncommon(freak) . I used silicone this time and it seems to be a nice compromise. Plus if you don't like it you can always take it out and try epoxy. I think once it is filled with epoxy it's there to stay.

Materials that can used to fill with listed from softest to hardest
Silicone (dries to a soft rubber)
pros: easy to find, thick so it won't ooze all over, pliable so it stays in place,cheap
cons:takes longer to dry
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount6.jpg
Liquid urethane (dries to various stiffness of rubber) (thanks OKI BOY)
pros:availiable in different stiffness, dries fast
cons:may breakdown, might be to runny for paper plate? (CustomMSP said he used 3 layers of tape to close off one side. Going right over the center hole. Thanks for the input!)

can't find a picture

Window weld (dries to a hard rubber) (thanks DSM2MSP)
pros:fast drying, stiff, holds up to car enviroment
cons:might be to runny for paper plate? (other ideas?)
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount7.jpg

Epoxy cement (dries like a piece of hard plastic)
pros:dries very fast, thick consistancy is easy to use)
cons:has no give at all (could be a plus or minus depends on what you want)
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount8.jpg

Materials needed:
filling material
Paper plate
drying time


1.) Remove the motor mount.

2.) Cut tab that sticks out below the top of the metal to allow mount to sit flush on paper plate.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount1.jpg

3.) Cut hole in paper plate to stick metal in center of mount thru the plate.
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount2.jpg

4.) Place mount on plate with metal sticking thru plate. The point of this is to keep the silicone from going all over the place.
view from bottom
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount3.jpg
view from top
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount4.jpg

5.)Fill mount with silicone. (or epoxy or ????)
http://www.msprotege.com/members/Yay-Boost/motormount5.jpg

6.)Let it dry. It was like 80 deg. out the day I did mine and I let it dry about 2 hours before I put it back in the car. I didn't drive the car until the next day.

I havn't noticed any increase in vibration compared to stock and it is a lot easier to drive now with the silicone.

[Demonic-Speed]

Nice DIY, wrong forum though...It will be moved soon:)

[DSM2MSP]

Nice DIY, another common thing to use is window weld, a little stiffer than the epoxy and silicone. I did it on my vr4..made a nice difference.

[Yay-Boost]

Nice DIY, wrong forum though...It will be moved soon:)I know just hoping more people would see it here. Any guess on how long till its moved.(outie)

[Yay-Boost]

Nice DIY, another common thing to use is window weld, a little stiffer than the epoxy and silicone. I did it on my vr4..made a nice difference.Cool I'll add that to the DIY. Epoxy once dried was like a piece of glass. What is window weld like? Did you have a Gallant or a 3000gt VR4?

[speedhawaii]

interesting

[DSM2MSP]

Galant and the window weld is good solid stuff ;)

[oki_boy]

most people that did the DIY motor mount stiffening on the spec v's used either 3M window weld or liquid urethene.

silicone ended up being too soft and not killing enough of the wheelhop.
the window weld was supposed to be a big messy PITA to work with though...

urethene sounded like the best option, as it was availible in different grades of final stiffness and ease of use.

[CustomMSP]

my MM filled with liquid urethane has separated at the center ring and is back to being soft like the stock because of the empty space around the ring. What you have to do is refill with urethane again at the cracked places.

[Yay-Boost]

my MM filled with liquid urethane has separated at the center ring and is back to being soft like the stock because of the empty space around the ring. What you have to do is refill with urethane again at the cracked places.What did you use to keep the liquid urethane from leaking out when you poured it in?

[CustomMSP]

tape, just tape everything up on one side of the mount including the center ring. Do Not make any cut outs and go over the tape like 3 times.

[SuperSpud]

nice.. it is probably still to soft though. b/c the stock rubber is pretty soft to begin with, so even if it were SOLID rubber with no holes, it would be soft. the aftermarket AWR ones are pretty stiff..

[uclap5]

i did this with silicon to a mazdaspeed #3 motormount as well. silicon is still pretty soft, but it seems like it helped reduce the movement a bit.

[mspeedpro]

i did this with silicon to a mazdaspeed #3 motormount as well. silicon is still pretty soft, but it seems like it helped reduce the movement a bit.how difficult is the removal of the #3 mm?

[Brian MP5T]

Nice DIY but if I bothered to remove the mount, I would just AWR it man!

[MP3skaterNC]

I used window weld on my back and #3 motor mount. Cured the wheel hop with the use of an awr front mount.

[uclap5]

how difficult is the removal of the #3 mm?

not too bad.

you will need a 6 inch extension, 15 mm (i think, could be bigger) deep socket, and i think a 14 or 12 regular socket.

took a good pretty large ammount of force to get off the nuts on the engine, but after that its pretty cake.

[CustomMSP]

The liquid urethane actually works very well, I swapped rear AWR my for filled mount mount and didn't notice any difference between the two as far as engine lash goes. I went from major vibration to zero vibration with my filled mount(80a shore hardness). But in about two weeks once the urethane separated from the center ring my engine started lashing like hell again and the shifting became a bitch aswell because of the engine movement. So now I'm ready to buy Kooldino's MM inserts.

[rahrcr]

Has anyone tried this set-up through the winter months? Curious as to what the ride quality is like. I live in the Northeast.

[Yay-Boost]

Has anyone tried this set-up through the winter months? Curious as to what the ride quality is like. I live in the Northeast.The stiffer mounts make the car easier to drive and makes it very nice in the winter. With silicone I havn't noticed any increase in vibration. I'm sure with stiffer filler your going to start noticing some vibration. With silicone it makes the car the way Mazda should have done it. If your going with lots of mods I would surgest something stiffer than silicone. I have never really had much of an issue with wheel hop. I've only hopped a couple of times. But since I have turned the boost up I've hit fuel cut a few times and with the O.E. mounts it's just nasty. You can feel the engine rock and slam back and forth. Silicone has helped this.

[oki_boy]

i wonder if we could get place racing to make full replacements....

[jred321]

nice silicone implants

[jersey_emt]

Moved. :)

[mspeedpro]

sounds like a cool cheap mod to do front mount and #3 but if it seperates after a little while i wont do silicone... prob choose a thicker paste and really shove a good amount in there... think that will last longer?

[Kooldino]

But in about two weeks once the urethane separated from the center ring my engine started lashing like hell again and the shifting became a bitch aswell because of the engine movement. So now I'm ready to buy Kooldino's MM inserts.

<3

With some luck I'll be able to start selling a driver's side mount as well.

But as for the old window weld trick - it's a cheap, easy mod, but it's sloppy, doesn't typically last, and isn't the best way to go.

[AznXstazy]

sory for bein so late to this thread but has anyone done this to the rear motor mount? i no this is for the front one but has anyone done it n is it hard to remove the rear one?

[BaD_HeX]

What about JB Weld? I'd think that would make for one stuff mount.

[jred321]

too stiff, you need some flexibility still, jbweld is like metal

[Brian MP5T]

AWR... Worth the money...

[rednecks_r_us]

This is all very interesting. Will this still work if your stock mount is already torn inside?

[TampaSport20]

use a torch and blow out the old rubber completely and fill the eintire thing with window weld

[iluvmacs]

i used window weld. It's very very messy, but it's durable and works really well after it dries.

[ahb11m]

after all any of this stuff could be trimmed if its a real mess???

[iluvmacs]

The window weld could easily be drilled to make some air holes. You can take a knife to it too.

[Nightmare]

i just finished doing the mount with window weld. i found it was easy, clean and made with incredable results! no more hop, or slipping.

[iluvmacs]

I still have some hop, but after doing all 4 mounts is pretty much controllable. I found that all the engine vibration is gone now that I've finished too.

[Nightmare]

im doing my side mounts this weekend

[chipa]

I was just wondering if anyone who has used to window weld has had it last? I've just broken my top (Left) mount and I want to fill the new one in with something to make it a bit better.

[ahb11m]

chris, see my vBGarage...

i used a product that is specifically for joining rubber, (KS Bond) i just used a shit load of it, and then baked it to half set... then i installed it back on the car, and waited...

your top mounts don't seem to have the same importance in holding the engine from what i can see...

having one top mount broken would probably show your accelerating reasonably hard!!! i'd put it on as a good bet you have broken your front engine mount... watch the way it rocks when you pull the throttle cable!!!

[iluvmacs]

I did mine separately, a couple of weeks apart. The first one I did 3 months ago has held up perfectly.

I had a problem with one (the front one) because I drove too soon after I did it. The motor moved and pushed a bit of the window weld out, but it's still pretty solid. I ended up cutting that glob off to make it look flat.

[mazpro]

one of my mounts is f*cked, so I want to do this. is it possible to fill this one and not need to get a new one?

[ahb11m]

oh i went out and did the other mounts with dow corning silastic - 732....

good shit, and is available in black (some one tells me now!!)

a word of warning though.... in Australia the laws on modifications are fairly stringent, in particular the filling of engine mounts is completly illegal - i found out the hard way

is a good mod, but i'd be checking with your transport boards on modified engine mounts... still you can use the poly mounts

[jonlong]

What mounts should I look to fill?

Pics would be helpful...thanks!

Also, do you need an engine hoist to remove any of the mounts?

[iluvmacs]

That's absurd.

[AznXstazy]

wat about va is it legal here to fill mounts? i never heard of laws not letting you fill mounts.....?

[RaiderMP5]

I had to repair my roof last year, and used some ultra messy roof flashing adhesive to do it. The stuff dried pretty stiff. I had a leftover tube, so I just filled the mount with it. The good thing is that I should be able to pry it out if it sucks. It does seem to have silicone properties, but it is not.

I will let you all know how it goes. it is drying now, and will be installed tomorrow.

This how-to gave me the idea, thanks!

[WetsuitxNinja]

I went to check my motor mounts last night to find that the front mount looked cracked, I couldnt really tell too much without taking it out. So I went about it, and found that the screw that holds the mount was actually stripped, I was like wtf? After trying many different tools to remove it I remembered seeing someone post a picture of some stripped nut removers, I went to sears and got a set. The little stripped bastard came right out. These things are worth the money, especially if you have a tendancy to work with stripped nuts, (im finding more and more as I work on my car) (drunk)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/Nofriends/00952166000-dlv.jpg

Definately worth the 30 bucks. I thought id let you know, plus im killing time as my mounts dry.

[mazdaholic]

i used this stuff of 3 of the engine mounts. its a bit messy if you are not careful, but it works well.

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=151

[justanotheradikt]

how long have you had it in? still holdin up?

[WetsuitxNinja]

The stuff I used is still holding up well...The vibrations are a bit heftier than stock for sure. I still get some wheel hop though =(

[Brian MP5T]

Just Buy One and forget about it..

http://www.awrracing.com/store/images/interface_elements/AWRname.gif

[WetsuitxNinja]

LOL I know I know, soon as funding is up I will.

[mazdaholic]

i've had the mounts filed for a few months. they seem to be holding up great though.

[RaiderMP5]

mine too. The roofing adhesive is finally curiny. Noticing a little AWR type hood vibrations, but have lost the wheel hop finally. Seems like a spiffy idea.

[misbehave]

I have a very very dumb question.
Do you need to tug up the engine to take out the mounts?
And if not, how is the engine supported after you took the mounts out? Or the wheel/axle will support it when you are not moving the car.

[TampaSport20]

I have a very very dumb question.
Do you need to tug up the engine to take out the mounts?
And if not, how is the engine supported after you took the mounts out? Or the wheel/axle will support it when you are not moving the car.

do them one at a time....the other mounts will hold the engine in

[iluvmacs]

Yeah. I used a jack and a large piece of wood (to distribute the force) under the oil pan just to move the engine an inch when putting the mounts back in. You can directly support the transmission if you're doing one of the mounts on the right side.

[Saint-Knight]

Hey folks! I just bought the windo weld and not really satisfied cause it dryes like hell. I spent like 6 hours and it just became a solid but not strong enoght to put the mount back. How long did your mount dry? Can I put near heater or something with steady temperature?
thx

[iluvmacs]

I let it dry the whole weekend. It must not be sticky to the touch. Still, after the outside dries, if you put it back in the car the inside which hasn't dried will be pushed out and you'll get nothing out of all your work.

Leave it for 2-5 days outside the car.

[Saint-Knight]

I let it dry the whole weekend. It must not be sticky to the touch. Still, after the outside dries, if you put it back in the car the inside which hasn't dried will be pushed out and you'll get nothing out of all your work.

Leave it for 2-5 days outside the car.
ok...thanks man. I don't know may be I did something wrong. I cleaned the rubber inside and put the windo weld inside with a big coat (may be that's why it doesn't dry so fast) and it is still like liquid? How did you make your with windo weld? (could you give me detail instructions)

[iluvmacs]

at first i tried to put a plate on one side, then fill from the other. That didn't work. The way I ended up doing it was use the caulk gun from one side, and just push as much in as I could. I might have used electrical tape on the other side, but right after i got one side completely filled, I turned it over and filled the other side. Then I used my finger to smooth it out, flat with the edge of the mount. That way all the air was out, and it filled up the whole mount.

It was really messy, and I used thinner to remove the tar from my hands. It got everywhere.

[clicknext]

I did it this weekend using epoxy. I thought that having the hard epoxy combined with the existing rubber would be a good compromise because damping and vibration, but it turned out to vibrate way too much for me. It barely vibrates at all at 1000 rpm and above, but at idle it feels like sitting in a massage chair.

Driving dynamics are much improved, and great overall, though. The throttle response is SO good. Car feels so much snappier, and even feels like there's more power, though I doubt that could be the case. Just a feeling.

I don't think I can deal with the vibration, though, so I think I'll have to get the SLS mount instead.

[Karna]

this is great! i might try this on the weekend

just a few double checking questions...the best material to hold up the longest and reduces hop and vibrations the most is windo weld? and should i do my front first and then the rear and so on, or the rear first?

thanks alot, this may be the answer to some of my issues with the car :)

[clicknext]

this is great! i might try this on the weekend

just a few double checking questions...the best material to hold up the longest and reduces hop and vibrations the most is windo weld? and should i do my front first and then the rear and so on, or the rear first?

thanks alot, this may be the answer to some of my issues with the car :)
Windo weld seems to be the most popular. But it seems that there aren't that many people completely satisfied by this solution. I don't think the order matters. Most people do the front first, probably because it's the easiest.

[iracemine]

joined the club. stoped all the motor movement. Ill chime in if it gives me any problems.

[iluvmacs]

I can't remember when I last chimed in, but it's been at least a year and I have 0 regrets for this mod.

I wonder how stiff the AWR mounts are, but I don't know if I'd like the mounts any stiffer.

[Karna]

joined the club. stoped all the motor movement. Ill chime in if it gives me any problems.

that looks really good!! what did you use to fill it in?

[iracemine]

two tubes of 1 min epoxy. I read through all the selections at the store and they said that this bonds to metal and ruber and stets flexable and resists cracking! almost like they made it just for this aplication LOL. having probs getting the rear mount off though.

[dd123]

Guys,

Question from a complete newbie:

How can I remove front mount? Any pics ? How difficult it is ?

[jeg0024]

Guys,

Question from a complete newbie:

How can I remove front mount? Any pics ? How difficult it is ?

What car...

[jeg0024]

P5? Its 3 bolts and takes 5-10 mins. 2 bolts on the bottom and one through the middle of the mount.

[dd123]

P5? Its 3 bolts and takes 5-10 mins. 2 bolts on the bottom and one through the middle of the mount.

thanks
I have p5.
Any pics, I have absolutely no idea where the front motor mount is ?

[justanothermp5]

open your hood, and look directly down, to the left of the radiator hose on the right

its way at the bottom and if u get under your car theres a little dome shape directly underneath where it should be

[justanothermp5]

OK so i just took off the two bottom bolts and now ive been trying to take the middle bolt out for about a good hour

how did it take u guys 5-10 minutes? theres no possible way for me to get the bolt out because i cant get a good angle on it

HOW DID U GUYS DO iT?

need an answer pretty fast please

[justanothermp5]

seriously, anybody

[Demoniam]

LOL, I'm in the same boat as you, man. I broke 1 extension, and busted the gears in a ratchet trying to get that thing off. I think I'm gonna see if I can find someone with an airgun. I was using a 1/2drive 2 ft breaker bar with 6" extension.
you may want to remove your intake for more room.
It's possible to get the bolt from underneath the car, through the little cut in the slpash shield. I did that and used my leg power. that's what busted my rachet and extension, though..

[justanothermp5]

nope i tried that too, didnt use my legs tho
i didnt have time to remove my intake cuz i had to go to work
i thought it was gonna be like a 10 minute thing and it turned out to be a real pain in the ass

I think its too tight cuz i had my clutch replaced at a dealership and they prob took that out and put it back in with an airgun, so im tryin to find someone with an airgun too so i can get this dam thing off lol

[livelyjay]

I filled mine with 3M WinoWeld. They have cartridges that you can put into a caulk gun for application, which is really handy. I covered one of of my mount with foil duct taped into place. I left the mount overnight for curing and it went in the next morning. Piece of cake.

The vibration levels are the same as the softest AWR mount (I know because I had that mount before the WindoWeld stock mount). Wheel hop was eliminated. I am back to stock motor mount now and it's nice to not have the in-cabin vibrations.

[Demoniam]

OK, mine broke free just fine, after giving it a 3 hour break. I guess the PB just needed some extra time to really soak in there!

[fishdonotbounce]

Hey just a couple quick questions here since I don't want to start a new thread for no reason.

First off is a very noob question. Which is the front, rear, and side mount?

Second is how easy is it to remove and fill the side mount?

Thanks guys

[Jasonboy]

Where do they sell window weld ? I've been to 2 hardware stores and 2 auto part stores and no one knows what I'm talking about.

[Jasonboy]

Nobody ?

[justanothermp5]

pepboys i saw it there the other day

not sure about the exact name but it was a similar product

[mcspeed]

FWIW I used Polyurethane caulking. It's black, matched the oem exactly in terms of appearance. I let it dry for three weeks to be sure.

This was done after buying the SU rear mount....what a POS. Vibrations and rattles galore were caused by the SU and the difference in terms of shifting was not that great.

My modded OEM engine mount is waaaaaaay smoother than the SU and the car feels way more refined. The SU made the car feel cheap and buzzy.

[lilpoindexter]

I just did this today to my 99 1.6 protege front and timing belt side mounts...The windo-weld has really gone up in price to $18 at autozone in socal as of sept 09...I just added a strut bar to my car, and my engine was clanking against the bar due to the thrashed mounts...With the windo welded mounts in place the car feels reallly solid, like a german car. The strut bar seems to only make a difference on rough roads, not cornering...if i hit a bump with one wheel, i feel the other side of the car pitch up too, whereas before it seemed like the car flexed. All in all the car feels like its made from a single piece of granite now.

[iluvmacs]

glad it worked for you. It's really tough stuff. Maybe warming it up would get it to flow easier.