View Full Version : How to pull Front door speaker wire...
Poseur
10-23-2003, 05:05 AM
Okay, kids. So pulling wire isn't a cake-walk, but it IS something that can be done. Tonight I went out with my usual assortment of tools, and my digicam.
(note: this is reccomended for systems pushing upwards of 50w to your doors. Many have run more without problem, but I for one felt a bit uneasy pushing 75w, so I figured out how to do this.)
First off you should remove your door panels, and speakers. If you need help here, check the how-to forum for lock shortening. The kick-panel relative to where you're working should also be removed.
With the door and kick-panels removed, you then need to locate the Molex plug. This is the point where the bunch of wires inside your door enter the body of your car. There's a rubber boot that surrounds it, this needs to be pried up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/1molex.jpg
Now you'll have access to the white plastic plug itself. It is secured to the car with 4 little tabs in the 1, 5, 7, adn 11 o'clock positions. 1 and 5, for the record are on the back-side fo your opening, and int he cramped space of the doorjam, quite hard to reach. I've heared of some ppl using zip-ties wrapped around. I, personally managed to just use a coathanger to depress the rearward-one while I pressed and pryed up fornt with a screwdriver. Did the top half first, then the bottom 2.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/2coathngr.jpg
Once the plug is out of the car, locate the green tab on top of it. this must be pulled upward until it stops in order to "unlock" the clip and allow you to seperate the 2 halves.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/3grnthng.jpg
THis is what you have to work with (this one is the body-side one, note that it has quite short wires that reach to it, so it's only possible to get it barely outside and angled where you can get at it. The top lefthand side of this piece is where I cut. (didn't have my dremel on me, so I had at it with the x-acto knife) You can see the 4 holes forming the shape of a square that are un-occupied.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/4carside.jpg
Here's the other piece. THis one comes from the door. Lots of room to work onthis one. Mirror it to matchup with the other one, and you can see my cutting location is going to be on the top-right this time. Now, on THIS half of the clip there is an exra wire so I left it in place, and only made an "L" over here.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/5doorside.jpg
Enough visualizing. This is the wire side of the door-plug. Note the bottom rightside of it where I've cutout my "L"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/6holes.jpg
I really didn't document the cutting and locations very well. The cutting took me alot of time mostly because, as I said, no dremel tool on hand, and an x-acto will only cut halfway through one clip, so you've got to flip it and go from the back side too.. It's all fairly straightforward, though. just find somewhere on the clip where you'll have room to fit whatever wire you wish to run, and make the room for it to pass through By whatever means you've got that won't chew into any interlocking shapes, or hit any of the other wires.
Okay, so assume the plastic's cut and ready to go. Feed the wire through to the door-side it will go inside the RUbber boot, and the "snake" that runs to the door. Get a hadn inside the door, and Feel around in there, just beyond and above the end of the window track is where the wire enters the door. Yours will show up here, too. Hey guesswhat? Your head won't fit inside the door, but my camera will. I thought it was cool to get to see the unseeable. The black vertical rubber strip under my hand is the front window track, and there's our rubber boot, and My wires coming through it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/7indoor.jpg
Sorry for the fuzzy pic, but here's the 2 pieces of the molex, and now I've threaded the wire(s) through the cabin-side one. I should note that I'm running 2 sets of wire one 14awg, and one 18, because I've always had strange ideas of speaker-illumination. Might turn out lame, but at least I'll be able to try... When threading from one to the other, make sure you flatten out the wire (get rid of any twists) before you go pulling it through the other side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/8pull.jpg
Okay, here's another case of camera can see, but I can't. For refrence, the black strip ont he bottom right corner is the weatherseal at the front of the door frame. The camera was sitting on the floor where a passenger's right foot would possibly be looking straight up. That wire you just pulled through the cabin-side connecter now has to go in the cabin. feed some through and then get into position where you can look/feel for it from the inside while feeding from the out. That white plastic piece is where the wire will hopefully come out. it is approx 6" above the bottom of the dash-panel and as you can see the metal bracket doesn't allow much hand-room.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/9insill.jpg
Make sure to leave more than enough extra wire in either direction, but now, you can now re-connet the molex, hopefully your wire's fed through without a problem. I should also note, that life is MUCH easier if you put the rubber boot back on the molex BEFORE clipping it back into your doorframe.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/10mtogether.jpg
YAY! I've got 14g wire for my kappas to get plenty of juice directly from my under-seat amp now without the clutter and thin wire of going through the factory harness. I've also got some extra wire for whatever I may want to do. Led's, window control for an alarm, or perhaps i'll have a practical application like a Tweeter with an interior-mounted crossover.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Poseurp/doorwire/11done.jpg
Stuff I used:
Bent coathanger, for depresssing back-side molex clips and "hooking" wire,
a couple different flathead screwdrivers for assorted prying and clip depressing
Phillips head for removing screws securing the door panel and speaker
my little mini leatherman and an x-acto knife set for clutting out holes (You probobally better use a drill or dremel or something)
A petzyl LED headlamp (Words can't describe how much easier these little things make it) Small enough to be out of the way, and just enough light to see what you're doing RIGHT where you need it.
14G wire (I used about 15' and there's about an extra foot worth int he door, and way more than enough to reach under my seat to my amp. 18g wire for my stupid led speaker light deal. I'll get some pics up of that if it turns out with some semblance of non-lameness.
DeanSweet
10-23-2003, 05:51 AM
Nice write-up Poseur. Thank you. :) This should be a sticky!
Where were you a week ago? It must of taken you forever to cut the plug with an Exacto-Knife!? Small phillips screwdrivers spun can drill thru small places like that too, then trim out with a blade?! As I read this I have to point out the note towards the end. Make sure you get the rubber grommet on the molex clip before re-installing back in the car frame. It is a major pain in the arse to get it on there when clipped back on the car.
Poseur
10-23-2003, 11:37 AM
Yea, Yay for being un-prepared, eH? Oh well. I've been pretty busy lately. wasn't gonna let something lame like having no dremel stop me. Tried teh screwdriver thing, but I was starting to warp the sides of the plug, and I didn't really want much of that nothing like good ol' slow and steady. Still only took me about an hour and a half to do my pass side door. Didn't button it all back up, though as I've got some E_dead that's supposed to be getting here today, and I wanted to put some of that on while it was off. Might do the flush-lock thing while I'm at it, too.
Anyway, I do hope this helps some ppl out. There's some good write ups elsewhere on this site, but it's always nice to atleast be able to see what you're up against. I assure you that every little step presents just enough of a challange to be really annoying if you're out of patience on the day.
servoeyes
10-23-2003, 11:58 AM
I will keep bumping this so that 1st makes sure he stickies it. Thank you so much for doing this. I was within hours of deciding to do kickpods, due to my frustration with trying to fit 6.5" comps into the front doors. I think I have enough room there to make a spacer/baffle that'll work great, though. Now I can run 140W to my new comps, and hopefully not screw everything up! You da' man!
Poseur
10-23-2003, 01:10 PM
The spacer/baffle thing should be a very real possibility. I'm considering it myself. I lined it out, and if you do a 6.5" it's really tight trying to get a mid and a tweet within the outlined oval, but you could easily make a 5.25" + tweeter plate. Something worth consideration, but for now I figured I'll just keep it simple. Listened to the Kappa 5x7's run off of an eclipse amp at my local shop, (friend works there it's nice) and as much as I generally don't got for coaxes, they DO sound really good, it's nice that they have an external crossover and seperate inputs. I might have to get ahold of some sharper xovers eventually. But then again, there's alot of nice 5.25" seperates out there now, too. and with 2sets of wires I can keep the xovers inside.... Might make a good project sometime later on down the road, but for now I've got a whole bunch of stuff to be installing, and there's something to be said for the simplicity of putting an oval peg in an oval hole as it were.
On a side note: I did check all of the wires going to each sideof the plug, and all of the colors match up on either side. (door side's wire colors are the same as their corresponding body-side wires) There were a couple of wires on either side that had no match on the other, but I left them all in place just in case. At least I'll have something to refrence should there ever be any need to attach them to something.
servoeyes
10-23-2003, 02:07 PM
Any idea if good 16awg wire will hold 140W? I'd really hate to have to get all new wire, after shelling out so much for what I've got...
Anyone?
Yeah, nice write up man, I wish this was available at the time I did my install so I could've ran new wiring :( . Maybe Ill do it some other time.
Craig you should definately make this a stickie, but please don't put it in the how to section, it will just get lost there.
srtchick
10-23-2003, 06:01 PM
poseur u need to cut ur nails !!
toucci
10-23-2003, 10:26 PM
poseur thanks for this guide, its really helpful. I couldn't figure out how to get those damn connectors out (my lighting in the garage doesnt reach inside there) and I was stuck in my new install on the final step of wiring the speakers. I seriously got one of them taken out in 15 seconds. It was easy with a medium-small tipped flathead. this is great you just made my day!
(goes back to installing)
MP5s Make Ready
10-23-2003, 10:32 PM
GJ, thanks for taking the incentive to help us all out!!
(2thumbs)
Poseur
10-24-2003, 10:42 AM
I'm not toosure of exact power handling capacity, but I got like 30feet of 14g from my stereoshop friend who ran it all through the computer forlike $3, so I'd imagine it couldn't be any more than $0.40 a foot for non-hookups. You could always jsut run 14 through the doors and do the rest later if you wish. Form the size of everything I'd reccomend no larger than 14, though I tried to get some 12 to go and it really wasn't happening. And I knew from the start that the twisted stuff I was using elsewhere wasn't gonna cut it. Though I guess if you pull the extra non-matched wire out and tape it off somewhere that'd give you some more room to play with.
--------------------------------
MSPC> I was wondering if the nails comment was gonna come up... At least they're fairly clean for being elbow-deep in my door and dash, eH? And, for the record, after looking at the pics I went and trimmed 'em anyway *L*
servoeyes
10-24-2003, 06:15 PM
Hey Pos,
I'm counting the wires to make sure I can just drop that extra wire on the door side. It seems pretty useless, and I have some 16ga Karma Kable (twisted pair, one jacket) to run through there. I'm pretty sure it's not connected to anything on the other side, though.
Ugh...back to work! :D
stuck.
I haven't read through it yet but once the beer leaves the brain I will :D
For now, back to south park.....CRAB PEOPLE...CRAB PEOPLE
Wow great job. the only thing I can remeber doing differently was using a drill bit to drill out th eplug where I wanted to run the wire insted of using a exacto knife. Also I pulled the car side plug back through to the inside of the car and worked with it form there instead of pulling it out a little bit. Either way is fine. Ones just easier to work on but mpore time consuming to do.
Pay close attention to how he said to put the rubber boot back on!!!! If you don't put it over the clip first you will never get that damn thing back around the molex clonnectors.
DeanSweet
10-25-2003, 08:44 PM
Never? I would never say never... I spent close to 1.5 hours trying to get the stupid freaking rubber grommet plug back together to the dismay of my lovely wife and 2 kids who think I am nutz for even attempting it. They had to listen to my banter about how stupid I was to start trying this feat. Great part is once I got the passenger side figured out the drivers side went much smoother. Same with the rear. Getting the nerve up to dremel out the plug was my 1st major obstacle... It was easier when customers would bring in their brand new cars but when it is your own... things seem to stress me out more. :)
derrick1623
10-25-2003, 09:07 PM
should i move this to the how to section? excellent write up, i will be running some wires soon!
Copy a link perhaps but I would rather it stay here.
jrodhotrod
10-25-2003, 10:58 PM
This is excellent information, I am really tempted to replace my wires from my amps in the trunk to the door speakers now. Presently the speaker wires run to the wiring harness in the dash, and then to the doors.
Realistically, how much power do you have to be pushing to your speakers RMS before changing the wire makes a serious difference?
This would be good to include at the top of the thread too, ie... this could only be worth your time if your pushing xxwatts rms...
Right now, the speaker wires to the doors is the only piece of my stereo that is stock, and my JL Audio 300/4 pushes 75W RMS to all four doors.
I suggest it at over 50 watts rms at 12 volts. I have stretched it much higher though :D
check out www.mobileaudio.com on the subject. They tell you the actual power loss expected based on the smaller wires impedance under a cerain power flow.
Poseur
10-28-2003, 02:54 AM
Dammit. so I get my new 4way amp in, wired up (though not pretty yet) and fire it up for a spin around the block... sounds good, really good. I'm going through different music to se ehow it sounds. then one disc comes on really hard to start and "POP fuzz fuzz fuzz" hooray for all the power I've got to blow 100w Kappa's with now. Yes I should've rolled it on, and yes I did have the crossover a bit low (50hz seeingas I've yet to get my sub hooked up) But it was playing soo nicely and sounding soo damn good with the other music that I didn't think about it. *sigh* I'm pretty sure my friend's shop'll take care of it, infinity seems to be pretty good about warrantee anyway. BUt seeing as it was their last set of 6x8's I'll at least have to wait longer and now that i've got all my toys finally that's the last thing I want to be doing....
I should note that I'm not expecting something for nothing. I blew the thing yes, however it was only one speaker that went, and even though it was loud, it was by no means anywhere near full power on either end. The amp was about as low as it can go, and the h/u was at approx 2/3 volume. It also happened to be the speaker that they'd had sitting in the display case for half a year, no idea if that's detrimental to a speaker, but it couldn't be preferable.
Oh, on a side note, the speaker-light thing's actually kinda cool. Just did it with 2led's per side, so it's kinda a blue oval glow. very subtle I tried to take pics, but my digi wan't happy with lowlight noflash...
got wake?
11-26-2003, 05:37 PM
i have proven that two 10 guage power cables and a set of RCA's can fit through the factory plug:D it was a pain in the ass, especially the drivers side, where i already had 14 guage speaker wire and 2 other wires from my alarm to my window modules:p
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid90/pfcdd8d646cde8af18eb08f149a8e985e/fa75546e.jpg
i'm putting one of these in each door:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid90/p4439b2d757e1ceb17bd8bf26c45afc7b/fa755454.jpg
along with one of these red amps in each door to power them:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid89/p568519963166059663ee372274ce6642/fa8030e1.jpg
Poseur
12-03-2003, 02:56 AM
HOLY SHITE DUDE!!!
Wow, quite impressive. I was thinking that if one were willing to cut away at more material and ditch a un-used pin or 2, you coudl possibly get 12gwire in there, but DAMN. I'mdefinately curious to see some more pics of your doors setup now. Mind hitting us with some info on the amps BTW? What kinda of power are they making? and what posessed you to put the amps in the doors? Cool idea, just not really anything I'da ever thought of.
lamp3
04-02-2004, 08:53 PM
so if all I'm running is one of those cheap 50 dollar us acoustics amps, do you think I can get away with the factory stuff in the doors?
so if all I'm running is one of those cheap 50 dollar us acoustics amps, do you think I can get away with the factory stuff in the doors?
Yes, you can get away with the factory wiring.
FoxPro5
04-10-2004, 11:00 AM
Just pulled 12 ga the other day and this write-up was very helpfull. The only thing i would add would be to start the passenger's side in the door and come through the hole into the car rather than start in the car first. Thanks Poseur!
N2OInferno
05-20-2004, 07:35 PM
i just wired up my whole car.. man, took me hours.. lol.. but I can't wait for my stuff to get here.. this write up helped a LOT though. I don't think I could have done it without the write up. the place where you cut an L, i relocated that pin to another unused slot (in case it is needed for something, seeing it connect to a blank makes me think it's irrelevant) and cut the square out.. So right now I have 12ga pulled through the plugs. Kinda tight fit, but it works. :)
oh yeah.. dremel tool on high speed shoots hot plastic all over! burned myself a couple times, lol, but nothing too bad at all.
Poseur
05-20-2004, 09:00 PM
Yea I was prettysure it was an unnecessary kind of deal, and I can't ever really see a need for adding a pin to that molex for anything, but it's just all what you're comfortable with I guess. If I were to do it again, I'd likely just cut the whole damn thing, (with a dremel of course)
Anyway, Glad this helps. I just remember being overly paranoid about not knowing what I was getting into before hand. I was prepared to have my door off of my car for a day going into it. Good getting pre-wired, though makes the wait easier if you can do something instead of just sit there waiting for SantaClaus in brown to showup...
Rider69
05-20-2004, 09:17 PM
I had to remove the door panels from an integra from a recent install and was surprised at how easy the doors come off. Better to have an extra person to help get it back on, but would make drilling new holes with grommets that much easier!
AODfan
06-10-2004, 04:41 PM
yea i remember doing this a couple of months ago before i was on this forum it was horrid. talk about having patience, the driver side went faster due to a known exit for the wire coming in the car, the passenger gave me some trouble i had to use a hanger and pull the wire through one of those small holes in the sheet metal, it was a pain but i got it and im happy with the results.
chuyler1
06-26-2004, 09:27 PM
Just wanted to say that this thread was a great help today. I pulled apart both doors and installed my Eclipse components. If anyone is wondering, it is possible to run 16ga twisted pair cable through the wiring harness (see picture). Basically you need to drill out four empty slots. On the passenger side there is an un-used wire (no idea why) on the male end that has know female counterpart (poor guy). I traced it back to an empty molex connector that may have been used for a door lock switch at one time. I just moved the male end over one slot so I could get four in a square pattern to drill out.
Anyway, I'm kinda slow. I started at 11:30 and the wires had already been run to the front of the car. By 4:30 I had the passenger side door finished. It took me a while to just make the baffles. By 6:30 I was done with the driver's door but it took me another 2 hours to clean up (vacuum all the sawdust and crap, put everything away, etc).
Let me tell you, the Eclipse baskets have got to be the largest I've ever worked with. They never want to fit in any door. They just barely fit in the 5x7 hole with a 1/2" baffle. I probably should have gone with 3/4" but I didn't have any lying around. Its worth it though because they sound great! The imaging isn't competition-quality with the tweeters in the stock locations but I can live with it.
Poseur
06-27-2004, 06:07 PM
Cool man, hey I'll be making some baffles very soon here. Do you happen to remember any rough outside dimensions for your ovals? and our cutout diameter? I'm getting the eD eDi 6500's which are essentially CDT HD's. I'll supposedly be needing 5-11/16" which I'm beginning to fear might make for some tight clearances. SPecifically I'm concerned about hitting the bottom of the door panel, so I won't be able to extend very far below the stock speaker's mounting.. Also did you check to see if 3/4" would cause the driver to contact the door panel?
Poseur
06-27-2004, 06:10 PM
Hey, while I'm here, since this seems to be un-stickied now, Could we get this moved to the how-to section. I've had many ppl approach me with difficulties locating this thread.
chuyler1
06-27-2004, 07:40 PM
3/4" will not hit the door panel (asuming that you remove the plastic ring that the stock speaker buts up against) as long as the driver doesn't have too high of a mounting depth. The Eclipse speakers are very deep for 6.5"s at 2-7/8" but with my 1/2" baffle the magnet came right to the edge of the stock water guard. There is probably more room back there but I didn't measure. So mounting depth shouldn't be a problem.
As for dimensions...Basically, I traced the outline of my Eclipse speaker, then traced the outline of the stock speaker over that, then cut out the union of the two circles. I didn't take any dimensions once it was done. The cutout diameter for the speaker was 5-11/16" which is typical for 6.5" speakers. However, getting your speakers to fit depends on the basket. The Eclipses have a cast iron basket that doesn't taper inward very quickly like a stamped basket. If the eD's are the same way (or worse) you may have to pull out the hack saw.
N2OInferno
06-28-2004, 02:03 AM
I did the same thing as him. Traced the stock speaker and then the CDT speaker over it.. I had to trim the plastic panel inside the door panel too though. The speaker would hit it, so i trimmed that oval on the inner door panel down almost all the way.
I used 1/2" MDF for mine.
For the fronts if your using a 6.5" speaker you can simply leave the top of the adapter aboput an inch high. It will clear under the door panel and give you the extra mounting surface most 6.5" speakers will need.
Astral
06-28-2004, 10:01 AM
Ok, so you can fit 16ga wire through that door connector part.
Can you fit 14ga wire through, however? If I were to upgrade speakercables in my car, I was figuring to go all out w/ 14 gauge.
N2OInferno
06-28-2004, 01:02 PM
I used 12ga and it fit. It was tight and I had to relocate the unused pin, but it fits.
Astral
06-28-2004, 01:28 PM
I used 12ga and it fit. It was tight and I had to relocate the unused pin, but it fits.
Whoa, I'm gonna go for 12 gauge then :) KnuKonceptz Karma 12 awg at $0.80... silver-tinned copper... I was looking at the KASA Kable, but the desire quickly goes away at $2.75 a foot.
Poseur
06-28-2004, 01:28 PM
1st> thanks, I didn't realize there was thatmuch to play with...think I'll stick to a bit less if I can jsut to be safe, but that's quite nice to know for when I decide to do something about midbass.
Astral> Hell, Wakey pulled 10g power wire and RCA's to his doors, I seriously doubt cramming lots o' wire through is a problem. Especially if you move that pin, it won't be a problem. I've currently got one 14g, one 18g speaker wire, and then a 4x20g telephone wire thing going through there (possible seperate tweeter wiring, triggers for window modules, and still 2 spare wires for possible lighting)
Thatsaid, I don't think that 12 is really allthat huge for gains compared to 14, I went through this one myself... Look at the chart thing that 1sty linked to further up in the thread. I think I'm pushing about as much power to my doors as anyone, and I'm not in the least bit concerned. Infact I think that 16 would have sufficed.
edit: I had my numbers wrong
N2OInferno
06-28-2004, 01:38 PM
The reason I used 12ga is cause that's what came with the amp kit.
FoxPro5
09-05-2004, 05:12 PM
Well i just pulled 12 gauge into the rear doors and it was a snap. The pic below shows where i pulled the wire through the plug. Basically its right on top rather than through the small holes. The only problem with this way is that the rubber cover doesn't quite fit flush to the car. I haven't figured out how to remedy this yet, maybe seal it up with some silicone? I used Crankin Cable (I think that's what it's called) and it is some heavy duty shit - makes Monster look like dental floss or something!
Poseur
11-29-2004, 07:17 PM
Moved to how-to now, YAY!
illwill84
12-14-2004, 12:35 AM
When I did this, instead of "cutting" the brackets or drilling into them, I was able to "puncture" the little holes where the wire goes with a small screwdriver.
I simply went larger and larger until the hole was large enough to run the wire through.
I didn't have any great tools sitting around, so this was my quick fix.
glyph
03-19-2005, 12:25 PM
I just ran my wires using this how-to, and it worked out just fine. I did the dremel thing with a drill bit, and my biggest fear was my fingers in the tight spots, but they're all accounted for.
Thanks for this how-to, greatly simplified my set up.
glyph
03-19-2005, 12:30 PM
i did it with 12 gauge wire by pulling out the one unused pin in that square section and drilling out all 4. I made sure it was unused, first. There was a pin only on one side, pretty obvious at that point.
RedKatanax9
03-20-2005, 10:10 PM
Just pulled the wires this weekend and it wasn't bad, took me about 2 hours for both doors. There were a couple more things that would help a lot if you took them off. One is the pin that holds the door-return thingy, it can simply be popped out by hammering unneath it, using moderate force. The door will open about 5-8 more degrees, which helps a lot giving the space is so tight. See attached photo.
Also, the panel to the very left of the dash can also be removed by inserting a flat screwdriver and pry it out, (shown at the right side of the photo) giving you acess inside the dash to help wiggle the wires or push the molex out.
khaosman
04-17-2005, 08:22 PM
My only tip is this:
Use silicone grease to help pull the wires through! Spray your wire and worm it through the grommet. It worked much better than a coathanger.
Poseur
04-18-2005, 04:11 AM
Just pulled the wires this weekend and it wasn't bad, took me about 2 hours for both doors. There were a couple more things that would help a lot if you took them off. One is the pin that holds the door-return thingy, it can simply be popped out by hammering unneath it, using moderate force. The door will open about 5-8 more degrees, which helps a lot giving the space is so tight. See attached photo.
Also, the panel to the very left of the dash can also be removed by inserting a flat screwdriver and pry it out, (shown at the right side of the photo) giving you acess inside the dash to help wiggle the wires or push the molex out.
My ONE warning about pulling the limiter-pin is that your doors will now have the possibility of coming into contact with your fender. so be VERY careful if you do choose to do this.
RedKatanax9
04-18-2005, 11:10 AM
My ONE warning about pulling the limiter-pin is that your doors will now have the possibility of coming into contact with your fender. so be VERY careful if you do choose to do this.
Good point, it was actually ok for me, the door was wide open and not touching anything...but should still be careful.
Silver Streaker
06-13-2005, 12:28 AM
hey, i got a question for y'all. why in the world are all the pictures all x'ed out?! its driven me crazy cuz i've got an install comin up pretty soon. i need to see how this is done!
glyph
06-13-2005, 09:44 PM
Well, the first post was a couple years ago, and where the pictures were stored is obviously no longer available. You'll just have to get used to it.
Poseur
10-17-2005, 06:48 PM
Alright, so I don't know howlong those pics have been down, but I've had a couple of requests. Had to go pull 'em out of an old harddrive, but they should all be good and reliably hosted now. Please let me know if they go down again, I've got them readily backedup now.
JCell
04-04-2006, 01:50 PM
thanks for teh write up, took me about 30 minutes and it came out great!
Thanks!
mazpro
04-09-2006, 11:11 AM
Hey, what happened to the pics in the first post??
neoturner
04-24-2006, 09:31 PM
Just did this for the second time this year. Johhny two times all over again. First time took 2 hours, 2nd time took about 15 min.
Huge gains due to -
door pin, take it off. My door also didn't hit anything but I took my molding off a while ago. watch it when the pin comes loose it will shoot about 7 feet in the air. learned the hard way. You have plenty of time to be prepared takes quite a few wacks before then.
clipzilla - once you get the clip loose, i took the rubber surrounding off it first. anyway pull that sucker all the way out and turn it towards you and it will come out even further. helps to get to the green clip. use a tiny flathead and release the door side tab on the green thing before you try and pull it up. It comes way up and doesn't come out so you can pull it up pretty far until you can tell it won't go any further.
grommet on the other end - take it out of the door and make sure the rubber slides up and down and a coat hanger works like a charm. i just bent the end into a ring with some pliers and taped my wire below that and it was all good.
if you got questions lemme know. I speak joe schmoe.
dbzeag
04-28-2006, 06:50 AM
Bump for request of pics please.
2brag
10-09-2006, 05:50 AM
I'm going to tackle this tomorrow during my interior retrim so ill get some pics for you all
Poseur
11-11-2006, 08:45 PM
Okay, sorry kids, the pics have been up and down. THis site only hosts them for so long, which kinda bugged me since this is somethgin that will never lose it's usefulness, but I've got a fairly reliable host now, so assuming it doesnt get swamped, photobucket should have us covered.
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