HOW TO: S-pipe removal, w/out turbo removal

[03BlkMicaSPD]

This is the rough and dirty version since I have had little time, working 10hr shifts and all. Any questions can be PMed to me. ~PIC AT BOTTOM~
This is just for the stock DP, this is assuming you have the rest of the exhaust off. I will get a pic of the tools I used so it can be totally clear soon. If anyone needs help near NC let me know and we will get some good pics of the process.

Here we go;) What to do first, remove the plastic covers at the bottom of the engine, around the turbo and the top intercooler pipe. Just a few 10mm bolts. Remove the bracket that mounts to the base of the S-pipe from the engine and S-pipe. Now look at the turbo and you should see a hose with a diamond shaped two bolt flange and a square pattern bolt head, need a special wrench for these. Take this off of the engine block and turbo and set it aside. no oil should leak from this with the engine off.

Now you will need a long 6 inch extension, a small swivle, and thin wall 6point 12mm socket. I used 3/8 inch ratchet. now you should be able to get to the back bolt by the engine block with this socket wrench, may need a helper to look from the bottom and help guide the socket on the bolt. Now this isnt easy, but by no means hard and it can be done. Go at it from the front of the turbo from the top engine bay. There is only one way to get on it.

Now the next bolt is the tough one. The bottom middle bolt on the flange. I had a 12mm wrench that can be purchased at any hardware store. It is around 8in long and at the very end it bends tward the bolt head to give clearance from close by bolts. With this 12mm wrench it can be taken off. Now a chisle can make your life easier and you will have a little score mark on the bolt when you are done. Standard bolt that can be purchased at lows... Use a small 8-10 inch chisle and tap a small indentation into the mushroomed edge of this bold and then angle the chistle to turn the bolt loose when tapping it with a hammer. (tap with some reasonable force) PB blaster will make this even easier. Its not hard, just believe in yourself (pullup) and have some patience. I had the DP totally off in 40 min including getting the car on jack stands. The new one can be installed in less than 15 min.

The rest of the bolts are not hard to get off at all. now you should have the downpipe flange unbolted. You will notice that it will not come off of the studs with the AC condensor mounted up. Loosen the tension from the belt by the adjustment on the power steering bracket. Remove the 4 bolts holding the compressor on the mounting bracket. Push it to the side, carefully, mazdas hoses suck and could split, have someone hold the metal pipe going to the condensor to keep stress off of the rubber hose near the bottom of the compressor.(This could be done first to help make removing the first bolt easier but I got it off with it still mounted up)

Now remove the 4 bolts holding the ac compressor bracket on the engine block. Now remove that Downpipe and be another person that did the impossible;) The turbo heat shield is a pain but you can either bend it back or take it off. install new downpipe on the studs and reattach the bracket and compressor and belt. Be sure to get enough tension on the belt. Now proceed to put the bolts on the studs which is simple with the GHL pipe on there. You have plenty of room to tighten them up all with a rachet, or wrench. Reattach the hose you removed from the bottom of the turbo going to the engine block. Put the plastics back on the bottom to keep water out and continue with the rest of the exhaust(cool)
http://www.msprotege.com/members/03BlkMicaSPD/PIC22.JPG

[low_psi]

Very cool, thanks dude!

[Black Majik MSP]

Save yourself some time & just leave the compressor off. :p Nice write up. (thumb)

[03BlkMicaSPD]

Save yourself some time & just leave the compressor off. :p Nice write up. (thumb)I would but im a wuss and dont wanna hear the girlfriend wine about being too hot here in Humid North Carolina summers.

Edit: ok i admit it, im the one that does not want to be burning up and humid.

[BLU BY U]

thanks for the help I can't wait to get it done!

[GHL Motorsports]

03BlkMicaSPD that was real cool of you to do for your fellow enthusiasts. Thanks and good work!

Phill

[Speed Vision]

Nice job man. After reading this, I have decided to sell my Apexr1 DP and buy the GHL S-Pipe/DP combo.

Big ups man..

[03BlkMicaSPD]

Bumpity, MODS PLEASE MOVE THIS TO HOW-TO SECTION

[BLU BY U]

Help!!!!! I started the installation but could not get 2 bolts off. the one at the bottom closer to the engine and the one next to it!!!

[ONRAILS]

BLU, did you take the compressor off?



Help!!!!! I started the installation but could not get 2 bolts off. the one at the bottom closer to the engine and the one next to it!!!

[BLU BY U]

BLU, did you take the compressor off?
No not yet its not in the way off thous bolts!

[Uturnman]

BLU, did you take the compressor off?

No he didn't. Maybe with the compressor out of the way he can get to those remaining bolts a little easier. He has to take it out to get the GHL downpipe in anyway right?

[BLU BY U]

No he didn't. Maybe with the compressor out of the way he can get to those remaining bolts a little easier. He has to take it out to get the GHL downpipe in anyway right?yes I have to remove it to get the spipe out but its to far down its not in the way off the bolts!!:(

[Uturnman]

yes I have to remove it to get the spipe out but its to far down its not in the way off the bolts!!:(

Yes, but it may give you more room to maneuver in there and get those two bolts out.

[03BlkMicaSPD]

Hey man, get me a number that I can reach you at. Check your PMs. I know what bolts you are on. one you can get with a 3/8th socket, 8in extension and a 90º swivle. The other will be easiest if you soak it with pb blaster then use a chisle to tap it loose.

[BLU BY U]

thx for your help let's see if I can get to it.

[peepsalot]

Now look at the turbo and you should see a hose with a diamond shaped two bolt flange and a square pattern bolt head, need a special wrench for these.
Could anyone elaborate on this. I think I am starting the install tomorrow, and I want to try to get all the parts tonight so I know I'm ready. What size, could I just use a crescent wrench or vise grips maybe? I don't have any square pattern sockets.

[thekid]

Could anyone elaborate on this. I think I am starting the install tomorrow, and I want to try to get all the parts tonight so I know I'm ready. What size, could I just use a crescent wrench or vise grips maybe? I don't have any square pattern sockets.
I believe it's a 4mm allen key... if i'm remembering correctly... none the less I'm pretty sure it's an allen key. That's what was used to take mine off last weekend.

While you're getting tools make sure you get the special box end wrenches with enough of an angle as mentioned in the instructions to get that tricky bottom middle bolt off, i forgot to do that and stores were closed on a Sunday night when i was working on this and I had to customize a couple of tools!

[peepsalot]

Just realized I'm gonna need a gasket for the s-pipe to tubine junction, right? Are people reusing theirs, or was this something that no one has mentioned yet?

[FL_Speed001]

Just realized I'm gonna need a gasket for the s-pipe to tubine junction, right? Are people reusing theirs, or was this something that no one has mentioned yet?

Bump for reply to this...want to get mine installed too, but was wondering the same thing....

[thekid]

Bump for reply to this...want to get mine installed too, but was wondering the same thing....
i reused mine, it looked to be in good shape...

[MetalSpeed]

hate to revive this from it's slumber but how long was the total install? Is this as hard as putting the AWR rear motor mount on? And what special wrench do you need? Thanks in advance!! I am about to order the S=pipe from MAM and I want to do this as soon as I get the piece in. Maybe I might need some help, to help the process along smoother I am in San Antonio any locals might be interested? I'll but the beer and some pizza.(drinks)

[msp35]

It took my old man and I about 6 hrs total. We went slow but did it w/o removing the turbo/mani assembly. I also had to take the thermostat housing off the block to remove the stock S pipe. I don't think it was machined properly?. Also we heated up and bent a box-open combination wrench for the back s-pipe bolt. Soak all the nuts with pb blaster. I used a flathead screwdriver to loosen the nut on the bottom in the middle.

[Gbourdon]

I am going to have to do a couple of these this month. I am crossing my fingers.

This should become pretty common with all of the Corksport and MAM pipes being sold right now.

[CustomMSP]

I think it's much easier to remove the whole turbo assembly together. I did this twice, once each way, and find that removing the whole assembly is much faster and easier. This also gives you a chance to port out the wastegate port for better flow and boost spike control.

[cosmo420]

Thanks bro man! This will prove to be useful when I purchase my s-pipe in the not too distant future, also did you notice the difference in the new one?

[MetalSpeed]

I think it's much easier to remove the whole turbo assembly together. I did this twice, once each way, and find that removing the whole assembly is much faster and easier. This also gives you a chance to port out the wastegate port for better flow and boost spike control.

Do you think you can do a quick how to on how to remove the turbo assembly I l would like to the easy way than waste a whole weekend.

[CustomMSP]

The tricky part is getting the right 12mm wrench. I had to sand down the walls on the closed end side on mine so it would fit between the exhaust mani runners. Also, you'll want to drain the coolant completely...this also gives you a chance to fill up with fresh new coolant. Remove the radiator by unbolting the top brackets that hold the radiator to the frame. You should be able to leave all the fans and the IC connected together. It should just come out. Once the radiator is out you have all the space you could ever want. Unbolt the spipe from the downpipe from underneath and the bracket that holds the spipe to the block. Undo the oil supply line from the top of turbo and old drain line from underneath the turbo with another allen key. You'll need leverage on that allen key when undoing the bottom drain flange. Remove the purple bracket holding the coolant/oil supply line together with an allen wrench. You'll want to use a power drill or something like that to do that allen screw. Now remove the bolts that hold the mani in place and everthing just comes right out assuming you have all the pipes/intake out.

[Paul]

sweet thankx man, i'll be using this for my downpipe from corksport

[MetalSpeed]

The tricky part is getting the right 12mm wrench. I had to sand down the walls on mine so it would fit between the exhaust mani runners. Also, you'll want to drain the coolant completely...this also gives you a chance to fill up with fresh new coolant. Remove the radiator by unbolting the top brackets that hold the radiator to the frame. Remove the radiator and you have all the space you could ever want. Unbolt the spipe from the downpipe from underneath. Undo the oil supply line from the turbo. Remove the purple bracket holding the coolant/oil supply line together with an allen wrench. You'll want to use a power drill or something like that to do that allen screw. Now remove the bolts that hold the mani in place and everthing just comes right out assuming you have all the pipes/intake out.

Do you have to do anything special when you put it all back together? Like putting more oil in the turbo etc.? Did You happen to take pics of the removal or installation?

[CustomMSP]

Do you have to do anything special when you put it all back together? Like putting more oil in the turbo etc.? Did You happen to take pics of the removal or installation?

Just plug up the hole on the drain line so you won't get any debre in there and make sure to keep the rubber ring that sits between the oil drain line flange and the turbo in a safe place. Sorry no pics.

[MetalSpeed]

Cool thanks appreciate all your input. Will a lot of oil spill out when I do this?

[CustomMSP]

almost none...it will be dripping a tiny bit out of the feed line.

No problem.

[hazeXban]

The tricky part is getting the right 12mm wrench. I had to sand down the walls on the closed end side on mine so it would fit between the exhaust mani runners. Also, you'll want to drain the coolant completely...this also gives you a chance to fill up with fresh new coolant. Remove the radiator by unbolting the top brackets that hold the radiator to the frame. You should be able to leave all the fans and the IC connected together. It should just come out. Once the radiator is out you have all the space you could ever want. Unbolt the spipe from the downpipe from underneath and the bracket that holds the spipe to the block. Undo the oil supply line from the top of turbo and old drain line from underneath the turbo with another allen key. You'll need leverage on that allen key when undoing the bottom drain flange. Remove the purple bracket holding the coolant/oil supply line together with an allen wrench. You'll want to use a power drill or something like that to do that allen screw. Now remove the bolts that hold the mani in place and everthing just comes right out assuming you have all the pipes/intake out.

My Sockets fit between the runners no problem, but on my buddy Jons MSP we needed a 1/4'' Swivel 12MM socket to get at 2 of the bolts.

Good lil Synopsis though CustomMSP(cool)

having done this turbo removal 2 times now, I'd say its really not that hard. I had the exhaust off, the radiator drained and removed, the SMIC out, the fans out, the IC piping off, and the manifold unbolted in about 1 hour and 45 mins. What slows me down is I get very CAUTIOUS when working with the turbo lines so I take my time. Other than that though the job is way not too hard, just a lil tedious.

[CustomMSP]

How's your car now that you have the exhaust on??

[hazeXban]

Ridiculously fast haha. Sounds amazing.

[slug420]

durrr...to remove the turbo or not to remove the turbo.

im deathly afraid of having to drain and refill various fluids and removing the turbo and making sure not to get any debris or anything in it....but i recently went through the hell of replacing the MAF on my truck and I have a feeling getting to the bolts to remove the DP without removing the turbo is going to be very similar.

hmmm

I will be using a hydralic lift while installing....does that make one method more appealing than the other? given that I should have plenty of room under the car and whatnot?

[Paul]

w/ a lift it will be easier for sure, but i still think that u'll have to remove something or other. do u plan on doing a turbo manifold?
i'm waiting to order my turbo manifold then install both at 1 time cuz they both require turbo removal and reinstall

[slug420]

nope, the dp/exhaust which is what i will be installing now is the extent of my plans.

[03BlkMicaSPD]

Then do it without removing all of the crap you do not need to remove. Just unmount the AC and bracket slide it out of the way and its cake. just follow the steps in the how-to

[poboxjosh]

bump for me

[slug420]

im planning this for tomm...can someone make a plain list of the tools required to complete this? from the first post it sounds like

10mm socket
square socket - unknown size (and where do you get a square socket anyways?)
12mm socket with 6" extension and swivel (is this a special socket that swivels or does the head on the ratchet swivel or is this a connector that goes between the extension and the socket? not sure where the swivel needs to be taking place since i havent seen it)
12mm box wrench with angled head like this?
http://content.sears.com/data/product_images/009/44360/00944360000-190.jpg
PB Blaster
Chisel (for scoring mushroom end of bolt and then applying pressure to bolt to remove)



can someone clarify the couple questions above and let me know if this is all i should need?

[03BlkMicaSPD]

I believe that square end bolts are able to be removed with an allen wrench set. I did not have the tool that fit it perfectly. not a socket, more like a square driver set would be what you need. http://www.wihatools.com/images/Bits/71802.gif
The swivel is just a plain socket wrench, with a 6 inch extension, then with a small swivel, then the socket. It is 4 seperate pieces put together.
That wrench pictured is perfect for the job.

[PlatinumMSP]

anybody have anymore pics? i'm planning on getting and installing a ghl turboback in a few weeks

[sandspeed]

sub , ghl downpipe coming soon

[chwood]

Ok so just in case anybody reads this anymore - I did this a week ago with a buddy. We took our time and went slow, had a few "philosophical disagreements" with some seized nuts, but all in all we felt good about it. I put on the S/J pipe from Corksport and a midpipe from MAM.

Now I did not remove the turbo or the radiator and I had no major issues...EXCEPT for the one super-nasty close quarters bolt on the top of the Spipe to the turbo - the one on the bottom side, right in the apex of the first bend. We got it off with a chisel no prob but I can NOT get it tightened down. (This is probably where I would have benefited from taking off the radiator.)

So anyway - I have this one nut that I couldn't get all the way tightened down and of course now I have a nice raspy exhuast leak. I'm assuming that it's either the result of that last loose nut or the need for new gaskets or a combination of both.

Any rec's for getting this bastard tightened down w/o taking off the radiator? Or am I just gonna have to suck it up?

[03BlkMicaSPD]

With the GHL you can tighten all bolts easily. im not sure with the CS downpipe. tightining is a different story, caint chisle it on.

[chwood]

yeah - I tried, but without taking off the radiator I didn't have any angle even for that. sucks. what about getting new gaskets for these joints? where would I find those?

[BlueWolfCry]

quick question, how do you loosen the tension by the power steering bracket?